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The beautiful opening face. Then it gets nasty.
Climb the steep, sheer face just L of where the boulderers have the wall chalked up under a large ceiling. The crux is moving R into the hanging dihedral; two ways to do this. IME either one is significantly harder than the 5.10 rating given in the Wilson guidebook.
Start just L of the arete.
Bolts directly above the route, but beware of sharp edges.