My Trip Report

Im deciding to post my trip report here, because I want to make sure you all see it:

I'm the A-hole who posted the obnoxious "Joshua Tree Route Recommendations" and explained that I was a new leader and wanted to test myself in J-tree.

Needless to say I don't do well taking advice, so I was a smart ass and you all apparently really loved the thread--as it is still current, and has 7,000+ views.

Anyways, here it is, my trip report:

Wild Wind (5.9)
Sail Away (5.8)
Gem (5.8)
Colorado Crack (5.9)
Continuum (5.8)
Invisibility Lessons (5.9)
Nectar (5.4)
#2 (5.6)
Grounder (5.9)
#5 (5.9)
#6 (5.10-)
Dolphin (5.7)
Bird of Fire (5.10-)
Bussonier (5.7)
Whataneasy (5.7)
Watanabe (5.10-)

This list is in the order I climbed them. After doing Sail Away I pretty much had given up on trying anything in the ten range. I couldn't stay off of Colorado Crack, although I was very intimidated by how steep 5.9 can be in Joshua Tree. When I on-sighted Colorado and Invisibility, I knew I couldn't forgive myself if I didn't try a ten, even it meant falling. We spent a day in the Isles Corridor and those nines were money and #6 looked like a climb I could send. I on-sighted it. On Bird of Fire and Watanabe, we decided to top rope them a few times, work out gear placements, and then climb them on lead placing gear, etc. I red-pointed both of them. However, I admit that I left two nuts down low on Bird of Fire, so as to keep myself from breaking my ankle if I screwed up on that sketchy lie back. Let me have it for that one, I don't really care. I think we saw three ambulances in the neighborhood that week. No surprise. But I guess by keeping the danger level high you keep thousands more would be's out? In a place already so overrun I might do the same. The few bolts we did see are ugly; the chains are all tangled and the wrong lengths, and the rope pulls aren't great. In the trades we call that being a hack. I think it fits in climbing as well. I guess you guys call that adventure!

One more thing. I have to say something about the ratings. I was unconvinced and pissed during the first part of the week. Theres is no way a 5.9 could be so steep! I felt that way until I climbed Invisibility Lessons. When I stepped out left, around the corner onto the steep and exposed wall, I realized how secure my feet felt. That's when I made peace with your ratings. Maybe it was just my shoes or something (TC Pros), but I found that I could smear on vertical slab and feel very solid. Similar moves on Sandstone wouldn't feel so easy. So I think the ratings are fair. Call them old school, or whatever. I just think they are accurate. It just took a little getting used to.

I have profound respect for Joshua Tree National Park and especially for people who climb there often. That place is hard and scary! I look forward to my next visit, which will be early March. But the truth is that while I am there its going to be the scariest and most nerve wracking week of my life, up to that point. That's what happens when I push my limits in climbing.

Thanks for reading!

Cool! Way to own it. Takes guts.

Good to see you had a fine time....

thanks for the TR, any pics???

Here are a couple pictures

Chadley on Sail Away