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A Clifton classic! Make time for My Time - especially for the new leader, a really fun climb.
P1: Follow the ramp up the corner to its top and more right to a left facing flake. This part is a little run out but just remember, its only 5.5 Layback the flake to a ledge then traverse straight right around bulge (crux) to a pin belay.
P2: Move out to the right following the dike on Ben's Balls (remember to protect your second). Just before the pine tree, step up left past a bolt to a two bolt anchor on a ramp.
P3: Move slightly left up to pin then trend up and right past three more bolts to a chained bolt anchor. Third class up and left to summit, walk off to trail on the right or rappel with two ropes.
This route has a lot of potential for practicing rescue techniques due to a solid belay ledge (pitch 2) with a bomber anchor. Have fun on this one, its awesome.
A large boulder sits to the left of the ramp. Start at this obvious ramp between Vacationland and Ben's Balls.
Nuts and small cams to protect the bottom, draws for bolts.
From: midcoast, maine
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Route Tip - The bolts on the 3rd pitch are directly above the two bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch. Literally straight up. It's about 40' to the first bolt.
Also, the bolts look a little sketchy. There's rust weeping out of the glue.
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R
The first two pitches are nice but route finding is definitely an issue on the 3rd pitch. Once you get above the ramp you are looking at a sea of fairly dense bolt-shaped lichen and there are no anchors in sight. I clipped a really old pin (the one mentioned in the book?) in the first shelf just above the belay then headed straight up and maybe slightly right (as described in the book) hoping the route would appear. About maybe 30-40 feet up I finally saw the gleam of a bolt but it seemed much further left than expected so I ended up running it out toward the tree over the hump by traversing right and then heading up. The angle is low and the climbing is not hard but all the lichen makes the footing uncertain places and there is no real protection for that variation. So all in all the climb kind of disappears into the lichen after the 2nd pitch and seems a little contrived. I wouldn’t recommend the third pitch unless someone knows the right way up (or is really into runout lichen pinching).
One other note: the hornet’s nest a friendly climber warned us had been in the tree near the end of the 1st pitch appears to be gone.
Great view though.