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My Stinky Hole 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dustin Buckthal & Taylor Jensen - 1998
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: Cory on Mar 10, 2013

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Seasonal Raptor Closures.

Description 

A fun, yet appropriately named, route. Climb the column without using the cracks on either side.

A tricky start on thin holds through a roof (crux) leads to the first bolt. If you don't want to commit to the moves before the first bolt, you can climb the crack next to the column, clip bolt #1 from there, then downclimb and start the route with the rope clipped above.

After the initial crux, easy but fun jug pulling up the vertical column commences past several more bolts before reaching a bird-poo covered ledge (Hence the name).

From the ledge, clip the last bolt and head up and slightly left onto steep rock. You may want to bring some tiny nuts or cams to protect the final awkward step to the right to gain the anchors.


Location 

The next bolted route to the left of Beta Junkie.


Protection 

6 bolts, plus a tiny cam/nut or two. 2 bolt anchor.



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