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My Stinking Brain 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1993)
Page Views: 171
Submitted By: ---- on Nov 6, 2012

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Description 

This route is characterized by extremely steep roof climbing with some stimulating cruxes thrown in. The majority of the holds are jugs and slopers.

Stick Clip the high first bolt and then tread lightly through the first 20 feet of vertical sandy stone. Follow a slopey rail out the roof past the third bolt and punch through the crimpy technical crux. Traverse on jugs left ten feet to a resting hold before the redpoint crux. Pop out right to a slopey hole and then jump to a good horizontal. Juggy climbing and one more technical move clearing the final roof delivers you to the top of the cliff.

The climbing on this route is very similar to the routes found at the hole (Kaymoor).

Location 

The middle line up the giant cave.

Protection 

7 Bolts + Anchor
Bring a draw for bolt 1 and a long draw for bolt 2. The rest is equipped with chain draws.


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By ----
Nov 6, 2012

If anyone knows the story behind the name of this route I'd love to hear it.