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My Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Karl Rohnke, R.D. McLean (1968)
Page Views: 6,560
Submitted By: Coz Teplitz on Mar 1, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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looking down at the start of p2 after the airy and...

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  • Description 

    A great, exposed route that starts from Lunch Ledge. The best route from Lunch Ledge to the summit.

    Approach via climbing Jim Dandy, Skip to My Lou, Cave Route, or any other route that leads to Lunch Ledge OR scramble up the 3rd class gully that connects with the East Face climber's trail between Cave Route and Second Stanza.

    Start: from the right-hand side of Lunch Ledge.

    P1: Climb up and right across easy ground aiming for bolts following the blunt arete. Look for the streak of clean rock amid all the lichen - it's hard to miss. Follow bolts and gear up and around the arete to two-bolt belay at stance beneath a leaning corner system. (150 ft)

    P2: Move up the corner a short way, then make an intimidating move out left and onto another slab. (The route does not continue up the corner). Move up to a bolt and then to a ledge. Belay here. (50 ft)

    P3: Climb up past bolts to a small roof. Pull it (5.4) and continue up the huge holds to a two-bolt belay below a trail (50 ft). (This trail leads to the summit).

    It is possible to combine pitches 2 and 3, but be careful about rope drag and communication.


    Location 

    The route starts from Lunch Ledge.

    Approach by climbing one of many routes to Lunch Ledge or by scrambling up the 3rd class gully from the trail. To reach this gully, continue up the East Face climber's trail past Cave Route. Look for a dank, muddy gully up and left of the trail before you get to Second Stanza.


    Protection 

    Light rack and quickdraws for the bolts.



    Photos of My Route Slideshow Add Photo
    first pitch on My Route
    first pitch on My Route
    pulling the roof/ledge directly after the start of p2.  FUN move, airy and exciting.  easier than it looks.
    BETA PHOTO: pulling the roof/ledge directly after the start of...
    First pitch of My Route.
    BETA PHOTO: First pitch of My Route.
    Comments on My Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jonathan Petsch
    From: Chattanooga, TN
    Nov 25, 2007

    you can do this in two pitches with a 60m rope. no extra pro needed

    By ziggy
    Nov 17, 2009

    onsite solo. a good route for the beginning multipitch leader who has become bored with Jim Dandy, Peek-a-boo, Cave Route, and North Ridge.

    By Scott O
    From: California
    Apr 4, 2010

    Great route. Had a bit of trouble finding a good anchor at the top of pitch 2. Guidebook said natural anchor, but nothing was worthy of slinging. Built a gear anchor on the right side.

    By jamknots
    Jun 17, 2011

    Scott, I kept going past that small natural ledge to the small overhang the first time i climbed this route. i cannot stress how much pro you can place here for a natural belay. it does, however, make the last pitch very short and takes away some of the fun. the second time i anchored into the rock face on my left side of the natural belay ledge and used the bolt above for a redirected top belay. cheers

    By Mike Holley
    From: Boone, NC
    Apr 10, 2012

    Good Route and dazzling exposure!! First pitch can be done strictly on quick draws, while the second could take a piece of pro or two if your feeling extra cautious, but could "safely" be done with only quick draws as well. The second pitch is surely where the real fun is at, the first roof pull right off the belay is wonderful and exposed (climb high into the crack before pulling the roof, makes it way easier then trying to pull it low) while the second and last roof move is simply delightful! However the second pitch can have some serious rope drag so just be aware of placements and extending things!

    • Free Solo'd it in 9 minutes over Easter weekend, 2012*