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Wind Tower - SW Face
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My Own Way 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown. FFA: T. Bubb, 12/8/01 (?)
New Route: Yes
Season: Gets AM shade
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Find the first pitch of Tagger via the route description on the page for that route. This variation was done on-sight lead. Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been lead prior.

Look below the left-hand edge of the Tagger roof, between the standard start of Tagger and 'Across The River From Butt Hair.' From this position, 'My Own Way' climbs the blunt arete directly, without deviating to either side. This arete intersects the roof on pitch-1 of Tagger at its left-hand side. Pull the roof and follow easy cracks to the anchors above P1 of Tagger. This is only about 30' of independent climbing.

Like the nearby 'I Did It My Way,' this line is not very independent and is not very noteworthy, but for the mind game of committing to the small holds on little or no gear.

Protection 

A light standard rack, wherever you can get it in. This can be TR'd from anchors above P1 of Tagger.


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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 10, 2002

I think it is a bit presumptuous to claim this as a first ascent, Tony. This line has probably been soloed dozens of times as far back as the 70s. Certainly Derek did it, and probably immediately forgot about it. I think it may make better sense to credit this (and all other minor, insignificant variations that are being done these days in Eldorado) to "unknown", rather than fall into the pit of "Rossiteritis", where anything not previously credited gets Richard's (or in this case, your) name attributed to it. A little too much ego-stroking going on here.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2002

Really? As far as anyone top-roping it, I don't know, maybe someone did and things stayed under foot and finger despite the pressure. Considering the fractured chips I picked up and tossed off of the edges I ended up using for feet, I doubt anyone would have lead or soloed over what I was on because you'd toss stuff like that off instead of stand on it if a fall meant certain injury.
I considered a prior lead by anyone who weighed more than 40 lbs somewhat unlikely. The little side-pulls I used required similar treatment. As I said in the post: "Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been lead prior."

As far as the matter of ego-stroking goes, you've made a big fundamental attribution error. How is leading a 5.10 an ego-stroke? I just filled in the info as best as I had and if someone has a correction, I'd hope they'd post it.

One could say that it takes a lot of ego to think you can read my mind and know my motivation, couldn't they? When I see an anonymous comment that comes off as a "That can't be 'cause everything has been done already" I'm probably going to make some assumptions of my own. "So-and-so probably did it and forgot about it" is pretty weak. "Well, the 4 of us used to hang a TR on those pitches and see how many variations he could do of each one for the heck of it and so I bet we'd done that too." would be a better case. Maybe you're not a presumptuous individual (whoever you are) but this post makes you look like one.
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Oct 4, 2002

Just a couple of things to add here. You "anonymous coward" guys have got to stop being so lazy/shit disturbing and sign your names. If you can't own up to your BS, keep it to yourselves. As for the likelihood of Derek having done this, don't count on it. Did you know him? And Tony, a number of us (I don't remember who) toproped this GENERAL line sometime in 80-82. I wouldn't have wanted to lead it though.
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 4, 2007

Thanks Again Tony for letting me have two Ticks for the price of One!