|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Unknown. FFA: T. Bubb, 12/8/01 (?)|
|Season:||Gets AM shade|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Dec 8, 2001|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on My Own Way||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 10, 2002
|I think it is a bit presumptuous to claim this as a first ascent, Tony. This line has probably been soloed dozens of times as far back as the 70s. Certainly Derek did it, and probably immediately forgot about it. I think it may make better sense to credit this (and all other minor, insignificant variations that are being done these days in Eldorado) to "unknown", rather than fall into the pit of "Rossiteritis", where anything not previously credited gets Richard's (or in this case, your) name attributed to it. A little too much ego-stroking going on here.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2002
Really? As far as anyone top-roping it, I don't know, maybe someone did and things stayed under foot and finger despite the pressure. Considering the fractured chips I picked up and tossed off of the edges I ended up using for feet, I doubt anyone would have lead or soloed over what I was on because you'd toss stuff like that off instead of stand on it if a fall meant certain injury.
I considered a prior lead by anyone who weighed more than 40 lbs somewhat unlikely. The little side-pulls I used required similar treatment. As I said in the post: "Judging by what had to be cleaned from it, it had not been lead prior."
As far as the matter of ego-stroking goes, you've made a big fundamental attribution error. How is leading a 5.10 an ego-stroke? I just filled in the info as best as I had and if someone has a correction, I'd hope they'd post it.
One could say that it takes a lot of ego to think you can read my mind and know my motivation, couldn't they? When I see an anonymous comment that comes off as a "That can't be 'cause everything has been done already" I'm probably going to make some assumptions of my own. "So-and-so probably did it and forgot about it" is pretty weak. "Well, the 4 of us used to hang a TR on those pitches and see how many variations he could do of each one for the heck of it and so I bet we'd done that too." would be a better case. Maybe you're not a presumptuous individual (whoever you are) but this post makes you look like one.
By Joe Huggins
From: Grand Junction
Oct 4, 2002
|Just a couple of things to add here. You "anonymous coward" guys have got to stop being so lazy/shit disturbing and sign your names. If you can't own up to your BS, keep it to yourselves. As for the likelihood of Derek having done this, don't count on it. Did you know him? And Tony, a number of us (I don't remember who) toproped this GENERAL line sometime in 80-82. I wouldn't have wanted to lead it though.|
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 4, 2007
|Thanks Again Tony for letting me have two Ticks for the price of One!|