My Mind Is A Blank
|Type: ||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||[Henry Barber?]|
|Page Views: ||1,706|
|Submitted By: ||Bjorn on Jul 20, 2008|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Pulling the roof on a solo TR now that the weathe...
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My Mind Is A Blank is definitely the proudest climb on the main cliff of CR.
This route takes on the proud, scantly featured face beneath a looming roof. Climb good edges and crimp in tiny slots to static or dyno (dyno may be easier as the edges get polished) to the massive horizontal. From there use small pockets and slopers to position your self under the roof. Get your feet high and gun for the good jug at the lip, then crank to a small slopey slot and finish. If you were to lead the route, this is the point where you would hug the tree trunk and scamper to safety with heavy breathing and a palpitating heart.
NOTE: As of early October 2008, the partially fallen tree that had been used as a TR anchor has become a more fully fallen tree. Other trees and/or clean gear anchoring possibilities remain farther back from the cliff's edge, but the ease of double slinging the tree and toproping your heart out is now a thing of the past.
This is dead center on the cliff, ten paces to the right of the Militant routes.
Most sane folks toprope this route. Trees and clean gear placements can be located and equalized atop the cliff.
The route CAN and HAS been led, however, and one look at the thing will show you that this is one of the coolest headpoints in the area, and I hope to climb it in that style at some point. A lead of this route, whether placing on lead or pink, warrants an R rating for sure, since your top piece would likely be a small cam under the roof and, in the event of a fall from the top, the system would likely only accelerate your impact into the face. If you know anyone who has led this route, you may feel compelled to kiss his or her feet.
Brendan on My Mind is Blank.
|By Alex C|
May 17, 2010
Definitely a cool little climb that is surprisingly pumpy for its length. I did headpoint this a few years ago and didn't think the fall would have been so bad. I was more worried about blowing the start, so I used a bouldering mat at the base.
From: Hopkinton, MA
May 13, 2012
Is it acceptable to go around right and back left into the small seam? I also nailed the deadpoint first go once I sacked up to try on a solo toprope.