My Left Foot
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BETA PHOTO: Route is in the center of photo.
P1 - (90 feet, 5.11b) 11 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Follow overlapping, left-leaning flakes with varied climbing. Must do classic!
P2 - (110 feet, 5.13b) 17 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Some desperate moves on nearly perfect rock get you into a left-leaning crack, through a hueco, then transitioning into parallel crack/offsets (crux). There is an optional belay here, or if you've got the endurance, continue thru several 5.12 cruxes to the top.
Be very cautious if rappelling this route, as the top 1/2 of the wall overhangs 15'. You don't want to be left dangling at the end of your ropes 90' off the deck. Recommend clipping both ropes through draws during rappel, then tying them off at the P1 anchor so you can pull your 2nd in when they rappel. It's also an easy walk off to the southeast.
|By Luke Childers|
Oct 6, 2010
I've only done the 1st pitch of this line, it's really nice, and the 2nd pitch just looks crazy classic pumpy hard and a must do!! Sick.
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
Oct 8, 2010
The 13 portion can be avoided for those interested in the upper 5.12 pitch. The guidebook describes how all this works, and it makes for some high quality climbing with 2 pitches of 11 and one 12 pitch to top it off. This is really an amazing line for sure. The stone gets better the higher you go.