This three pitch route combines hard crack climbing on the first pitch with some memorable bolt-protected face climbing. P3 climbs the spectacular face of the Quadrophenia rappel line, finishing on the best part of Xenolith.
P1 5.10c: Climb the right-leaning crack with some awkward laybacks and excellent gear to its top. Step left onto the nose of the rounded buttress, then go straight up past some thin, bear-hugging smears to a large ledge with a fixed anchor.
P2 5.10a: Move up and right above the anchor to the arete. Step to the right side of the arete to clip the third bolt, then back left onto the face and up to a large ledge. Place a directional, then go left to a good tree anchor.
Note: A good variation to this pitch is P2 of Hooligans (5.9): Climb the open book left of the anchor to a tree, then step right onto the black face past a bolt to the tree ledge. Excellent.
P3 5.10b: Walk left and up onto a slab. Step left on the slab (purple Camalot) and go up and slightly right on flakes to a good stance below a bolt. A small nut protects the moves to the bolt. Go straight up the face following bolts, then angle right to the open book corner of Xenolith. Go up the corner past two cedars to a large ledge; step left to the Quadrophenia anchor.
At the tow of the buttress, downhill and left of the Old Route chimney, at a right-leaning crack on the right side of the rounded buttress. This is just left of where the trail meets the cliff.
P1: 3 bolts plus standard rack to 2"; P2: 3 bolts plus a red Camalot for directional; P3: 5 bolts plus gear to 1".
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
May 22, 2012
Second pitch is nice. Carefull clipping the first few bolts on the third pitch, as there is ledge fall potential.
|By Jim Lawyer|
May 23, 2012
On P3, there's a bomber 0.5 Camalot, then a bomber nut getting to the first bolt. Pretty well-protected, in my opinion.