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Stud with a Rug S 
There Goes the Neighborhood S 
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Tomato, Tomotto S 
Trailer Park Logic S 
Trout Fishing S 
Untapped S 
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 
Urban Fringe S 
VHS or Beta S 

My Generation 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kevin Gonzales
Page Views: 2,241
Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Past the crux (which was totally dogged).

Description 

Just right of Ejection Seat, My Generation tackles another steep overhang and slab. It begins with a tough, bouldery start to a horizontal break (rest), then continue with a very thin section to an obvious hueco. Shake out and complete a final crux reach. Enjoy the tricky 5.11 slab. This is the easiest of Dan Durland's Triple Crown routes, but if you do not have the cruxes dialed, I would recommend a very long draw for the second bolt above the break. This bolt is very difficult to clip otherwise, since it is in the middle of the crux. A fall onto the lower bolt is awkward and potentially dangerous. Otherwise, this has excellent climbing.

Protection 

9 bolts/ anchors.


Photos of My Generation Slideshow Add Photo
Finally doing some climbing.
Finally doing some climbing.

Comments on My Generation Add Comment
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By Joe Collins
Oct 18, 2004
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I'm not sure how useful Peter's suggestion of a long draw on the 2nd bolt after the horizontal (4th total) will be... its a pretty tough clip but there really aren't any decent lower holds... the best hold in this section is a crimpy pocket next to the bolt... I'll have to check out that beta when I return. Bring a stick clip... pre-clipping the first two-bolts seems fairly crucial for the boulder problem.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Feb 11, 2008

Long draw on the 4th bolt is the (shhhh!) secret beta for a shorter climber, it makes all the difference. This route is enjoyable and worth an effort- tricky and engaging moves followed by a couple big reaches and fun slab climbing- from super steep to thin slab in 30 seconds. Don't forget to tick Ejector Seat also!
By steph johnson
May 15, 2011

What routes make up Durland's Triple Crown day?
By Mike Anderson
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Dec 13, 2011
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I think this is 13a, but if we call it 12d, it's consistent with the general old school/sand-bagged nature of the Gym.

The Gym triple crown is to do The Example, Deeper Shade, and My Generation in a day. It probably made more sense BITD when there weren't a many hard routes at Shelf.
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
1 day ago

Upgraded 12/13/14, first two bolts, cold shuts swapped for new Fixe hanger.
Last bolt spinner re-drilled ASCA bolt.
Top anchor swapped (11/30/14), thanks to team work between Nate and myself, special thanks to the ASCA for the hardware.