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Ken Black Memorial Dome
Routes Sorted
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Blackheart T 
Blackjack S 
Blackout T 
Chicken Mechanics T 
Fryer Flyers T 
Holiday In The Sun T 
Lewis Black  T 
My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom T 
Pacific Avenue Dorm T 
Pitch Black T 
Poultry Pilots T 

My Friends Treat Me Like a Mushroom 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bill Cramer, Michelle Cramer & Mike Shacklett, November 1992
Season: Faces East/Northeast
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 29, 2010

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Description 

An OK route that makes a good warm-up. Start in the low-angle slot on good rock and good pro to go up to a small shrub on the climb. Look right to see a bolt on the face to the right and clip that. Climb up and right past that bolt (crux) to continue up the face, wandering around for the best holds and eventually left, for the second bolt and finish, or to the right to join Chicken Mechanics (more trad gear). The route is a reasonable warm up and fin overall.

Location 

Just left of the base of Chicken Mechanics, there is a right facing corner that contains a low angle slot. The route starts in this slot.

Protection 

A standard trad rack with some longer runners and a few bolts to clip. If you stay right after the first bolt and join Chicken Mechanics, it takes more gear, so double cams are optional.


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By Gunkswest
Apr 4, 2014

The "slot" mentioned in the description might also be called a "gully." You climb up the gully about 30 feet to the second (and larger) of two bushes. Directly to the right of the upper bush on the main face is a bolt.

Climb up past the bolt on decent scoops to reach a vertical crack where you can get gear. Continue up and then left along the crack/flake to the summit, or better yet, clip the final bolt on Pacific Ave Dorm to protect exposed moves to the summit.

You'll need cams bigger than a gold Camalot for the anchor (ie: blue, grey & purple).

Down climb the west face of the formation along a low angled crack. Scramble down boulders toward the road to reach the base of the formation.