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My Demon Lover 

My Demon Lover 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: brianhaas on Jan 8, 2012
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Description 

The first crux is a mixture of body position and hight, no more than 7 feet off the ground. A drop knee-layback deal to a (PG-13 if on lead) dubious reach. Second Crux is just below the two bolt anchor with a sandy hand-jam traverse lacking any feet placement, much easier than the first crux. I'd highly recommend TRing it before you try freeing it; it's a stout .11a if you fudge the movement with a nasty ground fall.


Location 

From the climbers trail it will be the first (and quite obvious) line that you see. A flake/crack/seam under a 6 foot roof.


Protection 

Most commonly Top Roped off of two shiny new anchors. If leading it, make sure to bring at least 2 cams in the 2-3 in. range for the roof and a few small nuts for the lower 1/2 of the climb (i think i used two #5 BD nuts, one .75 piece, one 1 in piece, and one 2 in piece).



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