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 ADVANCED
The Heap
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Approach 4.0 T 
Call Me Barney T 
Country Western Swing aka Mystery Blocks S 
Egg Crack, The 
Eliminate Inversion Adventure, The T 
Haas Offwidth 
Live and Let Live T 
My Clone Sleeps Alone T 
Rookie, The T 
Spectreman T 
Storm Watch T 
Wicked T 
Unsorted Routes:

My Clone Sleeps Alone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Danny Inman on Sep 28, 2006

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Half way up "My Clone Sleeps Alone".

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a slightly flared, hand crack in a right-facing dihedral. Belay on top. Walk towards Spectreman area and make two raps to the base of Spectreman.

Location 

This route is located on the left side of "The Heap" as described in Kellman's book. We climbed "Approach 4.0" to access this area. If using Approach 4.0, this is the first crack you will come to. It is in very prominent, right-facing dihedral with a 5-foot block at the base.

Protection 

#0.75 Camalot, #0.5 Camalot, #2 Friend, #1 Camalot, couple of #3 Camalots (or similar) for anchor/top section.


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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The book calls this a hand-crack. I might have had a jam or two a few times, but this thing had more 1.25-1.5" cam placements than 2+" cam placements. I had more finger-locks than hand-jams. It is also easier than a lot of area 9s, or for that matter, easier than the 5.8 "approach pitch."