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My Cave or Yours S 

My Cave or Yours 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: B. Demallie, 1989
Season: Faces North- late sun only
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A tough line with tough holds that are tough to see. It was traditionally rated 11b, but even wired, the climb would be substantially harder. I find that Demallie edging routes generally are.
    Climb up non-trivial moves to the first bolt. The opening moves are either a thin boulder problem or stepping up off a rock behind the climb... clip the first bolt, then make increasingly difficult moves off of smaller and more hidden holds until the 3rd bolt at the crux. Decipher that, and climb up over the top to reach the summit bolts, which require 2-foot draws to lower off.
    A person who likes very small holds might perhaps like this route more than me. I found it reminiscent in style and difficulty to the lower part of 'Camouflage' on Rincon in Eldo (5.12-).


    Location 

    From the front of the Cave complex scramble up through and over many rocks on the North end to reach the pointed Southern Summit of the area. On the North Face you will see a 3-bolt line.


    Protection 

    3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor over the top. The walk off is back South to a low angle gully, down the gully then North and West to the base.



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