Start as for "Bedtime Story" and climb up to the fourth bolt on that route. Gain a ledge and traverse left to a cold-shut. Belay here or use a long sling and climb up orange rock on good holds to a ledge. Gain the ledge and crank over a bulge and gain a near-vertical slab. Crank up the nice slab past four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
12 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor. There is an optional belay on a ledge 40 feet up. One cold-shut and small gear for the belay.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the far left side of Plotinus Wall.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 28, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
A fun route, which is still a little dirty due to lack of traffic. It shares the pumpy layback start of Bedtime Story before branching off after the fourth bolt. A fun stem left at the sixth bolt, a neat bulge with good handholds up higher, and a crux slab at the top. The hardest move was at the next-to-last bolt; 10b/c seems about right. I may have skipped another hard move at the last bolt by sliding to the left.
After leading the pitch, I lowered from the anchors and my partner followed and cleaned the pitch on top-rope. It would be hard to clean the pitch while lowering or rappelling due to the traverse from the fourth to sixth bolts.
If you scramble up the loose gully to do Bedtime Story, be sure to do My Buddy as well.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Apr 20, 2007
I almost skipped this route as Rolofson gives it no stars. However, it is an OK route and worth doing if you just did "Bedtime Story". There is still a lot of lichen near the crux.