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My Big Red Catcher's Mitt 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Guy Lords
Page Views: 570
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 15, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Magenta - Purposefully Put In.
Cyan - Scraping the...
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Description 

This route was established on toprope in the early '90s by Guy Lords, who left behind a hangerless bolt (now the fourth clip) as the only sign of his passing. The route was equipped as a sportclimb by Alan Nelson in 2001. It ascends the overhanging right side of the leaning pillar to the left of "Mama Midget". It only merits the published grade if you avoid stemming the gully past the second bolt, otherwise it may drop a letter grade or three. Nonetheless, it offers a few enjoyable, interesting moves.


Protection 

4 bolts, 2 ring anchor.



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By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Avoiding the stem up to the second bolt would be totally contrived. After that, stemming does you no good. The crux is still pulling up and left around the corner. Lingering on the right face/stem wouldn't do you any good.