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Muzzerone

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Mandrachia 
Parete centrale 
Parete Dimenticata 
Parete Striata 
Pilastro del forte 

Muzzerone  


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Location: 44.0588, 9.822 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Mar 5, 2012
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The small town of Porto Venere is a short hike awa...

Description 

Cliffs coming directly out of the Mediterranean Sea. Gorgeous views and beautiful weather (it's blazing hot here in summer). Since the cliffs are typically south-west facing, the time to visit is from around September/October through May/June.

The crags at Muzzerone offer everything from easy slabs to overhanging endurance fests, and with single and multi-pitch routes, there's something here for everyone.

The rock here is mostly limestone. There are varying degrees of polish on the rock. As is typical, crags like Parete centrale which only have a 2 minute approach are quite polished, while others with longer approaches show significantly less polish. It is also of course possible to find routes which feel untouched.

For more information on the climbing at Muzzerone, visit the web site established by the locals: ilmuzzerone.com

Getting There 

Get to La Spezia, Italy. From here, drive south-west and follow the signs for Porto Venere and Le Grazie. Upon reaching Le Grazie, there is a road which goes uphill on the right. At this road there are ambulances parked on the left and a sign at the intersection with a picture of a guy climbing. Take this right uphill. You'll pass a mine on your left and go up some more. Take the road on the left uphill more and continue around until you see another fork. The road on the left goes down a little and this is the one you want to take. This road leads to all of the parking lots for the main sectors of Muzzerone.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Muzzerone
Fanny topping out Pitch 2.

Kimera 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Europe : Italy : ... : Parete Striata
Super cool multi-pitch outing! This route has a bit of everything with slab and overhangs.Pitch 1) From the vaguely marked name "Kimera" start straight up the slab and head to a comfortable belay stance slightly left of where you began. (5.10a) This stance is equipped with good bolts and is about 15 feet left of some rusty old bolts/anchor.2) Continue straight up the slab trending slightly right. The crux is right off the belay stance, which kind of sucks, but at least you get one bolt between y...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Muzzerone Slideshow Add Photo
View of the general area taken during the approach...
View of the general area taken during the approach...
Some part of Muzzerone
Some part of Muzzerone
Muzzerone as seen from Porto Venere. Most of the c...
Muzzerone as seen from Porto Venere. Most of the c...

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By Ryaan Braastad
From: San Francisco, California
Feb 18, 2014
Does anyone have any contacts for a guides in this area?