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Morrell's Wall
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Beat Feet T 
Epacondilitis T 
Jeff T 
Leave It To Beaver T 
Mutt T 
Sinbad (Variation) T,S 
Space Cadets T 
Tumbling Dice S 

Mutt 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Dargis, Jim Waugh 1977 (pitch 1) John Ficker, Glen Dickinson 1982 (pitch 2)
Page Views: 821
Submitted By: roman d on Dec 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Getting busy in the crux area

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Description 

The first pitch is a really fun 5.7 crack on its own. Follow flakes up and left to wide lieback flake, then to a straight in hand crack up to large ledge.

From here you can either rap off a slung pinch point between boulders, or continue to the top of the wall on either Leave it to Beaver, Mutt, Jeff, or Harpoon a Troon.

Mutt follows the left leaning dihedral/undercling (wide pro) to a crux thin crack in a corner and then up face to the top.

It would be wise to bring webbing to reinforce rap stations.

Location 

On the far right side of Morrell's is a detached wall with 2 striking cracks on it. The first pitch of Mutt goes up the left hand crack.

To get to the starting ledge for Mutt and Jeff, climb 30' of 5th class through overlapping flakes.

Protection 

standard rack + some big pieces for both pitches


Photos of Mutt Slideshow Add Photo
P2 of Mutt
BETA PHOTO: P2 of Mutt
Pitch 1 of Mutt goes up to the striking hand crack on the left. Pitch 1 of Jeff (5.7 fingers) is to the right.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Mutt goes up to the striking hand crack...
Lieback flake on P1 of Mutt. You can see through to Epacondilitis on the other side!
Lieback flake on P1 of Mutt. You can see through t...
Not as bad once you are in the hand crack
Not as bad once you are in the hand crack

Comments on Mutt Add Comment
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By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 29, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Honestly, the first pitch felt almost like a 5.9. The second pitch was more like 5.7. I'm wondering if someone got the ratings mixed up . . . both pitches being a lot of fun! The top anchors have chains and a rap ring--as do the middle anchors. Sweet Climb!!!