Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Mutt Ridin Monkey
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.9 from 114
votes
Routes in The Aspen Glade
|
All He's Ever Gonna Have S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
All He's Got S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Californios S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Drink and Wickedness S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Lonesome Cowboy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Miss Yvonne Rode the Horse S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Mutt Ridin Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Night-Flying Woman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Snowblind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Spurs Equal Velocity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Straight outta hudson S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Trixie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Whore's Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Tom Addison and Greg Jennings |
| Page Views: | 1,372 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | J. Albers on Jul 8, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Mutt Ridin Monkey is a wonderful route that climbs up a beautiful section of white rock on the right side of the Aspen Glade. The crux comes early between the ground and the second clip. Leaders at their limit should be careful at the second clip because given the bolt spacing, a blown clip will put you very close to the deck (this is fixed...see comments below). That said, the climbing in this section is fun and engaging with sidepulls and pinches; not your standard Iris fare. It is rare to find such a moderate, long route at the Iris and thus I think this route is a real standout (many of the other longish routes are at least 11+).
After the second clip the rock angle slabs out a bit and the leader is blessed with a nearly endless supply of sinker pockets and good rock until a horizontal break at about the height of the big roof that Spurs Equal Velocity climbs through. At this point the route character changes slightly to smaller crimps and feet, though the grade stays moderate. Move up and right clipping the last few bolts and end at nearly the top of the cliff at two huge open cold shuts (though the shuts are open, you can't slip the rope through, so you will have to hang and thread the anchor).
After the second clip the rock angle slabs out a bit and the leader is blessed with a nearly endless supply of sinker pockets and good rock until a horizontal break at about the height of the big roof that Spurs Equal Velocity climbs through. At this point the route character changes slightly to smaller crimps and feet, though the grade stays moderate. Move up and right clipping the last few bolts and end at nearly the top of the cliff at two huge open cold shuts (though the shuts are open, you can't slip the rope through, so you will have to hang and thread the anchor).
Location
Locate the Aspen Glade wall and find the low roof in the middle of the wall. Spurs Equal Velocity tackles the right side of the roof. Two new routes with glue-ins (not fully equipped as of July 2013) are to the right of Spurs. The next route is Mutt Ridin.
Alternatively, find Californios, which is the farthest right route on the wall and find the next route to the left; this is Mutt Ridin.
Alternatively, find Californios, which is the farthest right route on the wall and find the next route to the left; this is Mutt Ridin.
Protection
All bolts (maybe 7-8 plus anchors). Be careful getting to and clipping the second bolt because a slip could be bad. From the second clip to the horizontal break, the bolting is safe but spaced; this gives the route a nice exciting feel. The bolt spacing after the break is much closer, which I assume was done to keep you from getting hurt ankles should you fall moving through the last few clips to the anchors.
The route shares anchors with Californios.
The route shares anchors with Californios.
6 Comments