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Iron Curtain Wall
Routes Sorted
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Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 
Iron Curtain S 
Motley Cruise S 
Mutation S 
One With the Rock S,TR 
Out of Touch S 
Perestroika S 
Pick Pocket S 
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 
Up In a Flash S 

Mutation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Mason Bates (Belayer)... Watch out for the massive...

Description 

This route climbs a dirty looking face just right of a steep chossy gully. Climb easily up to the high first bolt, and then up through a few more bolts to two rap bolts. Better than it looks, and a bit harder if you avoid the side of the gully on the left.

Do not toprope directly through the rap hangers! Set up a TR through your own biners.

Protection 

5 quickdraws


Photos of Mutation Slideshow Add Photo
3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise
BETA PHOTO: 3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise

Comments on Mutation Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I believe this needs 6 quickdraws. Including the 2 for the anchors
By Lee Gitlin
Jul 1, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Bring your best smearing mojo, because a jug haul this is not. My climbing partners and I debated whether the arete was "on." In any case, it makes for a bomber clipping hold on the second bolt. Also, the Parley's area can seem like an EZ-Bake oven in the summer, so climb early to avoid getting scorched, and bring twice as much water as you think you need.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Ok. I was wrong. I climbed this again, and whereas 4 bolts are on the route, and the 2 hangers for the anchor--makes 6 draws, bring 1 extra for the last bolt on Motley Cruise, since it is reachable and prudent to clip this last bolt. So to make a long story short, bring 7 draws.
By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Gear Alert
One last comment for now: Bolts 1,2, & 3 are spinners.
By Spinalflow
From: Sugarhouse , Utah
Sep 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I would mumble this is more like a 5.9+ if you don't use the arete.
With the use of the arete I would say 5.8
By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 31, 2013

Fun tricky slab climbing near the top. The last couple bolts make it a 5.9. Lots of loose stuff on the arete near the gully; belayer watch for rocks. Rusted anchors and chains- one anchor is solid, the other spins. This entire wall could really use some TLC!