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Iron Curtain Wall
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Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall 
Iron Curtain 
Motley Cruise 
Mutation 
One With the Rock 
Out of Touch 
Perestroika 
Pick Pocket 
Unknown West of One with the Rock 
Up In a Flash 

Mutation 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 4, 2004
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Mason Bates (Belayer)... Watch out for the massive...

Description 

This route climbs a dirty looking face just right of a steep chossy gully. Climb easily up to the high first bolt, and then up through a few more bolts to two rap bolts. Better than it looks, and a bit harder if you avoid the side of the gully on the left.

Do not toprope directly through the rap hangers! Set up a TR through your own biners.


Protection 

5 quickdraws



Photos of Mutation Slideshow Add Photo
3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise
BETA PHOTO: 3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise
Comments on Mutation Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 7, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I believe this needs 6 quickdraws. Including the 2 for the anchors

By Lee Gitlin
Jul 1, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Bring your best smearing mojo, because a jug haul this is not. My climbing partners and I debated whether the arete was "on." In any case, it makes for a bomber clipping hold on the second bolt. Also, the Parley's area can seem like an EZ-Bake oven in the summer, so climb early to avoid getting scorched, and bring twice as much water as you think you need.

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Ok. I was wrong. I climbed this again, and whereas 4 bolts are on the route, and the 2 hangers for the anchor--makes 6 draws, bring 1 extra for the last bolt on Motley Cruise, since it is reachable and prudent to clip this last bolt. So to make a long story short, bring 7 draws.

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Gear Alert

One last comment for now: Bolts 1,2, & 3 are spinners.

By Spinalflow
From: Sugarhouse , Utah
Sep 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I would mumble this is more like a 5.9+ if you don't use the arete.
With the use of the arete I would say 5.8

By Annie Naylor
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 31, 2013

Fun tricky slab climbing near the top. The last couple bolts make it a 5.9. Lots of loose stuff on the arete near the gully; belayer watch for rocks. Rusted anchors and chains- one anchor is solid, the other spins. This entire wall could really use some TLC!