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 ADVANCED
Wild Horse Wall
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Bronc, The T 
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues T 
Mustang Sally T 
Wailing Banshee T 

Mustang Sally 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1986 Marshall Good
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: bgarrett on Mar 8, 2010

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I was too scared to lead this route, so we lowered down from the top and climbed it(we used a solid pinch about 30 feet back from the top). Great climbing!, though I probably would not lead it. Second route to the left of the Bronc. About 30 feet left of Bronc. Look for an old bolt about 15-20 feet or so off the ground. Climb good dark rock up to the bolt (5.8R), then more good 5.8R climbing to second bolt. I climbed up above second bolt about 20 feet (more 5.8R), then moved left to a lower angled area with obvious thin flake/crack. Follow these up and surmount a bulge just below a large, yellowish "bear grass" type plant. I found this to be very difficult (10c?) with decent gear possible a few feet below(my partner said he found a way to do the move that felt about 8+). I thought this would be scary on the lead. Then easy fifth class climbing up a slab to an easy chimney finish.

Location 

single rope rappel down Wailing Banshee.

Protection 

thin nuts and cams(up to 1 inch)


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