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|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
I was too scared to lead this route, so we lowered down from the top and climbed it(we used a solid pinch about 30 feet back from the top). Great climbing!, though I probably would not lead it. Second route to the left of the Bronc. About 30 feet left of Bronc. Look for an old bolt about 15-20 feet or so off the ground. Climb good dark rock up to the bolt (5.8R), then more good 5.8R climbing to second bolt. I climbed up above second bolt about 20 feet (more 5.8R), then moved left to a lower angled area with obvious thin flake/crack. Follow these up and surmount a bulge just below a large, yellowish "bear grass" type plant. I found this to be very difficult (10c?) with decent gear possible a few feet below(my partner said he found a way to do the move that felt about 8+). I thought this would be scary on the lead. Then easy fifth class climbing up a slab to an easy chimney finish.
single rope rappel down Wailing Banshee.
thin nuts and cams(up to 1 inch)