I'm taking a working road trip throughout the country and will hit more than half of the states, but am not sure exactly which ones yet. If I could only go to one crag in each state, which one would it be?

Indian Creek - Bro'rado

Maine- Shagg crag
N.H.- Rumney
W.V.- New River gorge
Kentucky- Red River Gorge
Tennessee- The Obed
Arkansas- Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Illinois- Jackson Falls
South Dakota- Spearfish canyon
Wyoming- Ten Sleep/ Sinks Canyon/ Wild Iris
Colorado- Rifle/ Shelf Road
New Mexico- Enchanted tower(access issues)/ El Rito
Utah- Maple Canyon/ St. George/ American Fork
Nevada-Red Rocks
Arizona- Virgin River Gorge
Idaho- City of Rocks
Oregon- Smith Rock
California- Jailhouse/ Owens river gorge

Just a few to start you off.

Utah - Maple\Snow Canyon\Millcreek Canyon
Idaho - City of Rocks

AZ - the secret ones...




(jk)

kind of

Well, I live in VA where the climbing is sparse- almost non-existent; especially in the winter. More bouldering here than anything else. Arguably the best crags in the state are on Old Rag Mountain.

If you hit a day in the forties, have time for an hour and a half approach, have a moderately sized trad rack, and don't mind hauling it up 2k feet of elevation, the payoff is pretty damned good. Two classic four star routes: Oh My God Dihedral and Strawberry Fields.

Thanks JJNS, you gave me some ideas for some of the states I had no clue about.

I won't be going until early spring, so hopefully snow won't be too much of an issue.

Whoops, you said sport crags. Well, the Talking Headwall, just south of Front Royal is decent and roadside. Sorry, I forgot to read. I hate it when that happens. Ignore my last post.

A few more:

Washington: Exit 32/ Exit 38
Vermont: Bolton (Not a major destination, but the best that the state has)
Texas: Reimer's Ranch (Again, not a major destination)

And don't forget Canada:
BC: Cheakamus Canyon, other Squamish area sport crags, Skaha (too hot in summer)
Alberta: Canmore area limestone, Lake Louise
Ontario: Niagara escarpment limestone (esp. Lion's Head)
Quebec: Weir, Orford

The crags in BC and Alberta are definitely worth adding to your list for mid-summer when the US gets hot.

Yeah, you're right. I missed sport in the title. I saw Indian Creek in the list and assumed it was any crag.

I still think the sport climbing at Index is better, there's just a whole lot less of it than at the exits.

Second on the VC in S Dakota. I have not been to Spearfish, but Victoria Canyon is awesome.

El Rito is probably just a bit inferior to the Tower in NM, but it really makes up for it with the awesome New Mexican restaurant in town, El Farolito. Bring your own beer. Too bad that Sitting Bull and Last Chance are burned down, both those places are stellar.

I am partial to the Lander crags in Wyoming, but I would have to say that Tensleep is maybe a better scene as of late for travelling climbers. Sinks is really hot in the summer and Wild Iris is an acquired taste that is great if you are into roped bouldering on small pockets. We also have some new crags that are being developed.

The VRG and the stuff around St. George are pretty close together and could be hit in the same visit, although the seasons are somewhat different. VRG has about the most heinous atmosphere of any crag I have been to.

Flagstaff in AZ has a decent sport crag, the Pit, and also some good bouldering nearby at Priest Draw (and Paradise Forks is awesome if you also trad climb).

ARIZONA- Mt Lemmon - Munchkinland Area and The Fortress.

VRG is in Arizona

Dude come to New Brunswick. We have 500+ route and absolutely no crowds. Also, we may not have the statue of liberty but once you're in the woods here which makes up 95% of the land, there are no rules to follow.

Free camping of course... seriously think about it sure beats going to these highly regulated PITA areas.

I'm definitely planning on spending some time in Runmney, so maybe I'll just swing through Vermont at some point.

I keep hearing good things about Eastern Canada too. Sounds like it would be worth the trip to get up to Nova Scotia. Are there any websites with info on the climbing up there?