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Must-climb sport crags in each state

Original Post
Cole Whitaker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

I'm taking a working road trip throughout the country and will hit more than half of the states, but am not sure exactly which ones yet. If I could only go to one crag in each state, which one would it be?

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Indian Creek - Bro'rado

JJNS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 531

Maine- Shagg crag
N.H.- Rumney
W.V.- New River gorge
Kentucky- Red River Gorge
Tennessee- The Obed
Arkansas- Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Illinois- Jackson Falls
South Dakota- Spearfish canyon
Wyoming- Ten Sleep/ Sinks Canyon/ Wild Iris
Colorado- Rifle/ Shelf Road
New Mexico- Enchanted tower(access issues)/ El Rito
Utah- Maple Canyon/ St. George/ American Fork
Nevada-Red Rocks
Arizona- Virgin River Gorge
Idaho- City of Rocks
Oregon- Smith Rock
California- Jailhouse/ Owens river gorge

Just a few to start you off.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

Utah - Maple\Snow Canyon\Millcreek Canyon
Idaho - City of Rocks

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
JJNS wrote:Oregon- Smith Rocks
Smith Rock

No "s". Sorry, one of my pet peeves.
Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

AZ - the secret ones...

(jk)

kind of

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
bruno-cx wrote:The Enchanted Tower has access issues as of now. The road to the towers has been closed. mountainproject.com/v/encha… It is possible to drive in from another road, long drive (1hour) and might require a 4wd vehicle with good ground clearance.
Its also possible to hike in from the highway. Requires lo rider 2wd or better. The hike takes ~30 minutes.
Cole Whitaker · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks JJNS, you gave me some ideas for some of the states I had no clue about.

I won't be going until early spring, so hopefully snow won't be too much of an issue.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

A few more:

Washington: Exit 32/ Exit 38
Vermont: Bolton (Not a major destination, but the best that the state has)
Texas: Reimer's Ranch (Again, not a major destination)

And don't forget Canada:
BC: Cheakamus Canyon, other Squamish area sport crags, Skaha (too hot in summer)
Alberta: Canmore area limestone, Lake Louise
Ontario: Niagara escarpment limestone (esp. Lion's Head)
Quebec: Weir, Orford

The crags in BC and Alberta are definitely worth adding to your list for mid-summer when the US gets hot.

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360
Jon Moen wrote:A few more: Washington: Exit 32/ Exit 38
Index by a mile.
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
sqwirll wrote: Index by a mile.
Little Si is probably the best "sport" area in the Seattle Area. Index has a good amount of hard, bolted sport climbs but I'm not sure I'd give it a "best sport" destination.

I'd call Index the best "hard man" everything destination...
sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360

Yeah, you're right. I missed sport in the title. I saw Indian Creek in the list and assumed it was any crag.

I still think the sport climbing at Index is better, there's just a whole lot less of it than at the exits.

Joshua1979 · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 15
bruno-cx wrote:The Enchanted Tower has access issues as of now. The road to the towers has been closed. mountainproject.com/v/encha… It is possible to drive in from another road, long drive (1hour) and might require a 4wd vehicle with good ground clearance.
Could be wrong but I heard the gate was recently re-opened.
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
sqwirll wrote:Yeah, you're right. I missed sport in the title. I saw Indian Creek in the list and assumed it was any crag.
But Indian Creek is a sport crag...
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
David Sahalie wrote: just in time for winter? i talked to people that had to drive around 1 week ago.
Sometimes the gate looks locked but is not actually locked. Usualy this is done to deter hunters.
Tom Rangitsch · · Lander, Wy · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,699

Second on the VC in S Dakota. I have not been to Spearfish, but Victoria Canyon is awesome.

El Rito is probably just a bit inferior to the Tower in NM, but it really makes up for it with the awesome New Mexican restaurant in town, El Farolito. Bring your own beer. Too bad that Sitting Bull and Last Chance are burned down, both those places are stellar.

I am partial to the Lander crags in Wyoming, but I would have to say that Tensleep is maybe a better scene as of late for travelling climbers. Sinks is really hot in the summer and Wild Iris is an acquired taste that is great if you are into roped bouldering on small pockets. We also have some new crags that are being developed.

The VRG and the stuff around St. George are pretty close together and could be hit in the same visit, although the seasons are somewhat different. VRG has about the most heinous atmosphere of any crag I have been to.

Flagstaff in AZ has a decent sport crag, the Pit, and also some good bouldering nearby at Priest Draw (and Paradise Forks is awesome if you also trad climb).

NickMartel · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 1,332

ARIZONA- Mt Lemmon - Munchkinland Area and The Fortress.

Walter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 0

VRG is in Arizona

Dom Caron · · Welsford, New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,370

Dude come to New Brunswick. We have 500+ route and absolutely no crowds. Also, we may not have the statue of liberty but once you're in the woods here which makes up 95% of the land, there are no rules to follow.

Free camping of course... seriously think about it sure beats going to these highly regulated PITA areas.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,926
JJNS wrote:California- Jailhouse/ Owens river gorge Just a few to start you off.
uggg.... Choss crawling and glassy volcanic rock.

There are much better places to sport climb in CA than those joints.

Poke around MP a bit and you will find better rock.
TheBirdman Friedman · · Eldorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 65
Jon Moen wrote: Vermont: Bolton (Not a major destination, but the best that the state has) Texas: R
Being a bit of nitpicker here, but having cut my teeth in the area, just saying Bolton as a destination is a recipe for disaster. The Bolton area is extremely varied in terms of quality. The two most likely destinations you would hit first, Lower West Bolton and the Bolton Quarry are of low quality. The Quarry has a handful of decent routes, but most of the rock is complete garbage. Lower West has good rock quality and one or two classics, but beyond that, most visitors would feel ripped off if those are the two Bolton areas they check out.

Carcass Crag, the 82, Upper East Bolton, Upper West Bolton, New Crack City, etc., are all much better destinations but most have access issues associated with them. The point is that if you are heading to VT to climb, either skip it and head to Rumney or find a local who can show you the worthwhile stuff.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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