Musical Partners  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  Webster, Scannell 1983 Season:  fall/spring cloudy days Submitted By:  Armin on May 7, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> Serpent Point and the adjacent walls within one-half mile are closed to public use from March 15 through July 15. This includes the landscape portions above the walls extending 50 feet from the rim edge. This pertains to the following areas: North Rim areas - The Alpine Aretes, Porcelain Arete, and Painted Wall. These climbing routes are closed: Alpine Route, Porcelain Arete, On the Border, Broken Porcelain, Northern Arete, Beyer Route, The Dragon, The Serpent, Forrest-Walker, Stratosfear, Journey Through Mirkwood, and Southern Arete. South Rim areas - Dragon Point and Dragon Point Buttress. These climbing routes are closed: Pilgrimage, Crumb Blunder, Magic Dragon, Black Adder, Black Snake, Black Heathen, Black Dragon Rider, and Silent Rage. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

From Williams' book/my 2 cents: The route climbs left most of three crack systems, 20 ft left of Midsummer.

P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'

P2 Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.

P3 Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly R to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/Leisure route.

P4 Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited L around the block halfway up the pitch and finish with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots. 5.10.

Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming. 5.10.

Location 

Descend Cruise Gully. 100 ft after 2nd rappel. Solo up 4th class ledges 40ft. After P4, walkoff L or do optional P5.

Protection 

Black Alien, doubles from green Alien size through #3 Camalot (1) #4 with extra hand and fist gear for Sex Comedy variation.