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Musical Partners 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Webster, Scannell 1983
Season: fall/spring cloudy days
Page Views: 675
Submitted By: Armin on May 7, 2009
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Start of the route.
2013 Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


From Williams' book/my 2 cents: The route climbs left most of three crack systems, 20 ft left of Midsummer.

P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'

P2 Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.

P3 Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly R to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/Leisure route.

P4 Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited L around the block halfway up the pitch and finish with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots. 5.10.

Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming. 5.10.


Descend Cruise Gully. 100 ft after 2nd rappel. Solo up 4th class ledges 40ft. After P4, walkoff L or do optional P5.


Black Alien, doubles from green Alien size through #3 Camalot (1) #4 with extra hand and fist gear for Sex Comedy variation.

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