Music Hall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  25.1104, 121.9228 Map Page Views:  1,229. Good page?    Administrators:  Nate Ball, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  BrianWS on Apr 22, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Morris Chen trying not to take a fu**ing fall on F...

Description 

One of the more popular sport and trad areas in Long Dong. Crowds can form on the weekends, especially if there are classes or clinics being held. If the local gyms or clubs make it a destination, finding another spot is recommended.
Climbs range from about 10-30 meters on hard sandstone. Rock quality is excellent until about 12 or 13 meters -- most of the sport routes end before the rock gets loose, however, there are some fragile blocks and flakes on some of the taller routes.
This area is well-known and often climbed pretty much only four routes -- Wedding route (5.5/5.6), Finger Crack (11b/c), Fucking Fall 10d, and one other route whose name escapes me at the time (11b/c). There are plenty of traditional lines as well numerous nasty, rusted expansion bolts from routes of yesteryear.

Getting There 

From Schoolgate: Hike along the coast for about 20-25 minutes. Scramble over the boulders in the schoolgate area, pass the ponds and fishing holes until you reach the traverse. You can climb over the traverse or take it directly (5.4 or easier), but be mindful of the fall -- it's a good six meters or so onto barely submerged rocks or coral.

Once you come out of the traverse, continue past the monobridge (building materials change seasonally) and make one more easy traverse. You should see a large face (Wedding Route) with a cave about 3 meters up. This area and the adjacent wall facing the Pacific is Music Hall.

The Classics

Featured Route For Music Hall

Big Drum 5.11b  International : Asia : ... : Music Hall

Large slopers and round holds pass three bolts to a ledge. Tall climbers (over 6 feet tall) can easily clip and pass the next two bolts, however shorter climbers require a bit of creative legwork in the large horizontal under the fourth bolt and small holds in between the big stuff.In the original guidebook, written by a generation that is *far* shorter on average than the current crop of Taiwanese, this route was rated 5.11c/d. It has since been downgraded to 5.11b...[more]   Browse More Classics in International