Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lower Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ants In My Pants S 
Cemetery Gates S 
Chicken Soup S 
Eulogy S 
Music for the Dead S 
Procession S 
Unsorted Routes:

Music for the Dead 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Erik Johnson
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Aug 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Music for the Dead is the first route you encounter on the Lower Tier itself (not to be confused with the big sunny slab just left of the Skull Cave, which has two long face routes).

From the parking area, follow the trail straight back, stepping over an enormous anthill. Music for the Dead will be on your left, about 30 feet past a horrendously chossy, left-trending arch. It is the furthest route left on the wall.

This is a good tick for boulderers, as the crux comes early and the climbing up high, while tricky, is mostly vertical. I think most people pre-clip the second bolt.

Bust a series of hard moves right off the deck (V6/7?) until you surmount the bulging wall and hit the vertical plaque above. A longer-than-it-looks vertical slab, with occasional bulge and overlap cruxes, leads you to the anchors. Expect sporty climbing and less-than-secure moves on the upper headwall.

Protection 

12 draws and a rope.


Comments on Music for the Dead Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greaser
Aug 23, 2004

Good, but stout.

Can't believe more people don't climb this.

Appears to have lost some foot holds on the left side of the crux (tick marks leading to feet that are no longer there and fresher rock scars remain). Anyone have any info on this?
By D-Storm
May 3, 2010

Stick-clip the second bolt and skip the first bolt entirely it helps quite a bit with rope drag at the top. A longish draw for the second bolt would probably help even more, but then the move there would be scarier.