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This is a large, wide crag on the south side of the river at mile 3.8. You probably won't see it driving up the canyon but is quite striking when coming down. The rock seems to be grainy and rounded. Most climbs face north and are quite shady, even in mid-summer. The base of the crag is several hundred feet above the river.
Park at a large pullout on the south side of the road at about mile 3.8. This pullout is a hundred yards or so upstream of the crag, which is visible from here. Cross the river (wading probably required Spring into Summer) and head SE to the crag. There is quite a bit of poison ivy in this area so be careful. A sandy, barren shoulder seems to be the easiest way to access the crag and there is a faint trail up it.
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Freewheelin' 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13 Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
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The location of this route is not easy to describe, but it lies more of less in the middle of the crag. Look for a bolted low angle buttress right of a shallow gully leading to a large pillar with slings 80' up.P1: 4 bolts to a belay from the slings atop the pillar (5.7), 80'. The rock seems potentially crumbly here, exercise caution. There is one place on this pitch where a cam or small stopper may be placed, about 5' above the 4th bolt.P2: 6 bolts to a 2 bolt rap anchor (5.8), 80'. You cou...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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