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 ADVANCED
The Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Express, The S 
Arnold! Arnold! S 
Arrowhead Spire S 
Black Mamba Arete S 
Blast from the Past S 
Bolt the Planet S 
Bone 'n' Vein S 
Bottom Feeder S 
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 
Cask Strength S 
Cimmaron Lanes S 
Comin' In Smooth S 
Crack of Dawn, The S 
Crystal S 
Deeper Shade Of Soul S 
Dizzi Lizzi S 
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 
Ejection Generation S 
Ejection Seat, The S 
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 
Example, The S 
Five Dollars S 
Ga-stoned Again S 
Great Escape, The S 
Green Bonus, The S 
Gym Arete Direct S 
Gym Arete, The S 
Head Cheese S 
Hot Rod Lincoln S 
I Am A Machine S 
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 
I'll Be Back S 
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine S 
Jane Fonda Warm-up S 
Librium Quiver S 
Lockdown S 
Morning Stretch S 
Muscles From Brussels S 
My Generation S 
Natty Dread S 
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 
New Rule S 
New Vernacular, The S 
Oh... What Are You Looking At S 
Orange Marmalade S 
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 
Paradise Regained S 
Penitentiary Pump S 
Pinhead S 
Prickly Pear S 
Profits of Rage S 
Pulley Mammoth S 
Rally Monkey S 
Raw and the Roasted, The S 
Real Deal, The S 
Rio Station S 
Scarface S 
Senor Verde S 
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 
Shorty Bob S 
Smoking Pickle, The S 
Solar Flex S 
Spontaneous Combustion S 
St. Patty's Slab S 
Stud with a Rug S 
There Goes the Neighborhood S 
Three Stooges S 
Thunder & Lightning  S 
Tomato, Tomotto S 
Trailer Park Logic S 
Trout Fishing S 
Untapped S 
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 
Urban Fringe S 
VHS or Beta S 

Muscles From Brussels 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 14, 2010

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Muscles From Brussels starts on the right side of ...

Description 

This is a fun arete climb with some great rock and good moves. The start is a bit flakey, but the upper section of rock is excellent.

Begin a bit right of the prow, and make thin, balancy moves between sharp crimps. Move left onto the prow, then further left to some sinker pockets & a good rest. Move back up & right on good incut crimps to a blank section that is overcome with opposition slapping.

Location 

At the far right end of the Gym, this ascends a rounded, brown prow immediately right of a large South-facing panel of stone with the bolt route "Pump Up & Air Out".

Protection 

Four well-spaced bolts and a hard-to-see two bolt anchor. The hardware on this route is very poor & widely spaced. The first two bolts have home-made sheet-metal hangers, and the anchor is just two bolts with hangers & no lowering hardware. It is possible to traverse up & right to the anchor on "The Armstrong Express" and lower from there.


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