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> N Buttress
Muscle Fat
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
Routes in North Buttress
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Beer Gut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Double Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Family Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Garden Party T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Grand Central T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Hops'n'Barley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Metal Pecker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Muscle Fat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Party of Two T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pedestal Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slab Time T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Slab Time Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Small Arch Left Side TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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STD T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Alan Rees, Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 1,158 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Townsend on Aug 18, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Scramble as high as comfortable on the easy slab and establish a gear belay.
P. 1: Wander up easy slabs with little pro to a small ledge just left of the downward-facing point. Gear belay. 5.3, 200'.
P. 2: Follow the arching corner up and left to an obvious wide crack that breaks through a short headwall. Up this (crux) to double cracks on the lower-angled slabs above. Gear belay; if you stretch out the rope, there's a small stance with a decent crack (and you can probably finish in one more pitch instead of two), but you won't be able to see your partner on the crux. 5.7, 100-200'.
P. 3: Follow the double cracks up to the ledge and bolted anchor at the top of Beer Gut. 5.4, 100-200+' (depending where you ended the second pitch). The gear is a bit spaced and thoughtful, but OK.
Rappel Beer Gut with two ropes. You won't be able to see the station at the bottom of the first rappel until you're some distance down.
A quality, moderate line. The wide crack section is short, and pretty reasonable.
P. 1: Wander up easy slabs with little pro to a small ledge just left of the downward-facing point. Gear belay. 5.3, 200'.
P. 2: Follow the arching corner up and left to an obvious wide crack that breaks through a short headwall. Up this (crux) to double cracks on the lower-angled slabs above. Gear belay; if you stretch out the rope, there's a small stance with a decent crack (and you can probably finish in one more pitch instead of two), but you won't be able to see your partner on the crux. 5.7, 100-200'.
P. 3: Follow the double cracks up to the ledge and bolted anchor at the top of Beer Gut. 5.4, 100-200+' (depending where you ended the second pitch). The gear is a bit spaced and thoughtful, but OK.
Rappel Beer Gut with two ropes. You won't be able to see the station at the bottom of the first rappel until you're some distance down.
A quality, moderate line. The wide crack section is short, and pretty reasonable.
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