All Locations > W Virginia > Seneca Rocks > S End

Muscle Beach

Name: Muscle Beach
Rating: 3.7

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in South End

L › R R › L A › Z

	A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dracula (aka Dracula Beach) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dracula Direct T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
	Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Simple J Malarkey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Ray Snead, Matt Hale, 1975
Page Views:	4,712 total · 25/month
Shared By:	Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008
Admins:	Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

P1: Follow the crack system over easy terrain for about 15 ft and then start trending left to reach the overhang. Once you reach the roof, place a good piece and cut around left to reach a hand crack(5.10). Follow crack to shuts. (This pitch frequently stays dry in a light rain.)

P2: From the anchors, head up and right to reach a pair of cracks. Climb the cracks (crux) to reach a stance. You can place tons of gear here if you can get your hands free! Continue straight up to reach an overhang, pass it on the left and then diagonal right toward the anchors below the SJM traverse ledge.

P3: This is also the SJM Overhang Finish. From the anchors, continue up and over a large ledge. Climb up and right aiming for a large roof split by a crack system. Place good gear at the base of the roof and gun it up and over the lip. Easy but wild finish!

You can rap down with double ropes via the SJM anchors to the right of the finish.

Location

This route is located about 15 ft uphill from the start of Sixth Sense. Start at a cluster of trees near a crack system.

Protection

Gear #2 Camalot and less. More nuts and small stuff and a few tight hands sized pieces. Shuts at each belay, no anchors above the 3rd pitch. This route can be extremely well protected.