This route share the first two bolts and moves as Afterburner. Climb up a short crack and then angle to the right up into a steep shallow corner. Follow the line of bolts up through the corner and steep face to the anchor. Great climbing on good holds and rock.
By Dr. Dan Feb 27, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a.
Let's at least stick to the guide book ratings here. Definitely .11a. if this route was at old Shelf (Contest, Freeform, Gallery, etc.) it probably would be .10d.
Like the book says, "Not a single move of 5.11..." what this climb lacks in technical difficulty it only delivers on the pump factor. It's a route I'll get on everytime I go back. Easily the best of the grade at Cactus Cliff.
By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Nov 21, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
Stellar route, but much harder than any 11a's I've done lately, including enduro routes like this one. Harder than Free Willie in Bocan, Fuzzy Undercling at the Red, Reefer Madness in Clear Creek, etc., just to name a few.
Or maybe I just suck.
By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Nov 21, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-E4 6a
I also noticed that the person who called this 10b/c (what?!) 'cleaned it on TR' and at least one person who called it 11a one-hung on it. Dude. It's an endurance route.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Dec 30, 2010 rating: 5.106b20VII-E2 5b
There were sure awfully good rests on it. I did it fresh off of a pretty severe injury (just got the splint off of my broken wrist a few weeks ago) that made the other 10s around give me pause... but this one, no. Didn't get pumped, didn't struggle. And I was hanging the draws OS. I'm not trying to brag, I'm just saying that the 5.10 rating is an available opinion to more than just people who hung on it or followed it. I'd endorse that.
By Hans Hoffman From: D'iberville, MS Jul 14, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+E3 5c
The 4/5th bolt is loose. I don't remember exactly which one. I tightened it as much as I could with my hands. Still climbable just thought I'd share.
I have done many many routes from 5.10 to 5.13 at Shelf and this is among one of my favorite climbs at any grade. Regardless of the debatable grade (I thought it was roughly 5.9c), it's very enjoyable climbing and can serve as a great warmup for some of the harder routes at Cactus. Do it!!!
Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars.
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