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Muscle Beach
YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80' |
| Consensus: | YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details] |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 2001 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Page Views: | 8,626 |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2001 |
You & This Route | Other Opinions (204)
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Description
This route share the first two bolts and moves as Afterburner. Climb up a short crack and then angle to the right up into a steep shallow corner. Follow the line of bolts up through the corner and steep face to the anchor. Great climbing on good holds and rock.
Protection
Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Slideshow
Unknown climber enjoying last light on Muscle Beac...
Austin Brown.
Near the end of the bulging crux. Photo by Paul Re...
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2). Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
Nan finishing the crux flake of Muscle Beach.
Taking advantage of the only rest.
Nan cruising the lower section.
Muscle Beach, Oct. 2011.
Amber up high on "Muscle Beach".
Starting the crux. This is how Cactus looked the ...
Unknown climber, Oct. 2011.
| Comments on Muscle Beach | Add Comment |
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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2014 |
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By Dr. Dan From: Steamboat Springs, CO Feb 27, 2004 rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a. |
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By Dave Meyers From: Golden, CO Dec 17, 2006 |
Let's at least stick to the guide book ratings here. Definitely .11a. if this route was at old Shelf (Contest, Freeform, Gallery, etc.) it probably would be .10d. |
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By jarthur From: Westminster, CO Mar 23, 2008 |
Like the book says, "Not a single move of 5.11..." what this climb lacks in technical difficulty it only delivers on the pump factor. It's a route I'll get on everytime I go back. Easily the best of the grade at Cactus Cliff. |
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By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Nov 21, 2010 rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Stellar route, but much harder than any 11a's I've done lately, including enduro routes like this one. Harder than Free Willie in Bocan, Fuzzy Undercling at the Red, Reefer Madness in Clear Creek, etc., just to name a few. Or maybe I just suck. |
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By Ben Cassedy From: Denver, CO Nov 21, 2010 rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
I also noticed that the person who called this 10b/c (what?!) 'cleaned it on TR' and at least one person who called it 11a one-hung on it. Dude. It's an endurance route. |
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By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Dec 30, 2010 rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
There were sure awfully good rests on it. I did it fresh off of a pretty severe injury (just got the splint off of my broken wrist a few weeks ago) that made the other 10s around give me pause... but this one, no. Didn't get pumped, didn't struggle. And I was hanging the draws OS. I'm not trying to brag, I'm just saying that the 5.10 rating is an available opinion to more than just people who hung on it or followed it. I'd endorse that. |
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By Hans Hoffman From: D'iberville, MS Jul 14, 2011 rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
The 4/5th bolt is loose. I don't remember exactly which one. I tightened it as much as I could with my hands. Still climbable just thought I'd share. |
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By Curt MacNeill From: Boulder, CO Jan 11, 2012 |
I have done many many routes from 5.10 to 5.13 at Shelf and this is among one of my favorite climbs at any grade. Regardless of the debatable grade (I thought it was roughly 5.9c), it's very enjoyable climbing and can serve as a great warmup for some of the harder routes at Cactus. Do it!!! |
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By dancesatmoonrise Dec 2, 2012 rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars. |
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By Ben Hall From: Boulder, Colorado Feb 14, 2013 |
Definitely a Shelf Road favorite for the grade! |
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By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Jan 14, 2014 |
Way fun. Reiterating the above comments, just watch out for the pump. Enjoy! |
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By sanz From: Raleigh, NC Mar 23, 2014 |
I thought this route, Blackman's Burden, and Misalignment all felt about the same difficulty, 10+ range. Sustained but lots of big holds and good feet to keep the pump at bay. Great route. |
