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 ADVANCED
Cactus Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affluenza S 
Afterburner S 
Agave S 
Alexi's Climb S 
Alignment, The S 
Almost French S 
Almost Gothic S 
Amiga S 
Are You Experiential? S 
Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 
Axis of Evil S 
Banana Split S 
Barbed Wire Love S 
Beach Ball S 
Beef Cake Formula S 
Bionic Minnow S 
Black Slabbeth S 
Blackman's Burden S 
Blade Runner S 
Blarney Stone, The S 
Blond Princes S 
Bombodido S 
Book of Dude-Aronomy, The S 
Bur-Har-Bur S 
Cactus Cliff Addict S 
Candy for Big Kids S 
Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 
Cellulite District T,TR 
Centurion Enigma S 
Cheeseburger In Paradise S 
Child's Play S 
Chompin' at the Cholla S 
Christmas Tree S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Cobra S 
Commitment S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Crimpson Candy S 
Critic's Choice S 
Cro-Magnum S 
Crynoid Corner S 
Cure For The Common Crimp S 
Da Fly S 
Dances with Cholla S 
Dereliction Affliction S 
Dihedrus S 
Divinity School S 
Don't Be Messin' With Ma Moves S 
Early Bird S 
Escalando S 
Et Tu, Brutus S 
Fantasia S 
Fast Food Nation S 
Fishisms T 
Flight of the Phoenix S 
French Are Here, The S 
Fully Equipped S 
Funkdemental S 
Gabby S 
Glass Babies S 
Glue Slippage S 
Good Red Road, The S 
Gravitations S 
Great Expectations S 
Hair Trigger S 
Half Breed S 
Hero Driver S 
Hey Pueblo Gringo, Got a Hanger? S 
High Heeled Tittty Twister S 
Hot Beach S 
Hurricane Hinzi S 
I Claudius S 
I Lean S 
I'm Having A Vision S 
Ian's Climb S 
Illegal Smile S 
Impulsive Hands S 
Institutional Meat S 
Jamuary S 
Joy of Cholla, The S 
Jumpin' the Gun S 
Just Thesenga It S 
Kalahari Sidewinder S 
Killer Toupee, The T,S 
King Louie's Traverse S 
Kodachrome S 
La Temperatura de Shelf S 
LaCholla Jackson S 
Lats Don't Have Feelings S 
Legend on the Fall S 
Leisure Class S 
Manly Bulges S 
Midget Toss S 
Misalignment S 
Morning Joe S 
Muscle Beach S 
New Ethics S 
New World Order S 
Ol' 47 S 
Oscar de la Cholla S 
Out There Take Anything S 
Paleolithic Tool Traditions S 
Part Muffalo S 
Pick Pocket S 
Politically Incorrect S 
Poquito Mas S 
Puff Daddy S 
Purple Corner T 
Quarterback S 
Quasi Quasar S 
Raven, The S 
Reach Around, The S 
Red Eclipse S 
Red Giant T 
Redman's Burden S 
Relampago S 
Richard Simmons' Tanktop S 
Risky Business S 
Shelf Pride S 
Short Man's Burden S 
Six More Bottles of Basco S 
Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 
Slicer S 
Solar Eclipse S 
Spray Lord S 
Squeeze the Moment S 
Stand, The S 
Super Suka S 
Third Stage S 
Three-Quarter Ton S 
Thumbs Up S 
Tits Up S 
Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat S 
Total Recount S 
Totally Blonde S 
Turkey's Bleak T 
Two For One S 
Under A Blood Red Wall S 
Unknown S 
Usual Suspects, The S 
Utter To A Scream S 
Wadsworth Boulevard S 
White Punks on Pockets S 
Whiteman's Burden S 
Working Man S 
World Peace S 
You Show Me Your Heavy Weapon, I'll Show You Mine S 

Muscle Beach 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,528
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (188)
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Austin Brown.

Description 

This route share the first two bolts and moves as Afterburner. Climb up a short crack and then angle to the right up into a steep shallow corner. Follow the line of bolts up through the corner and steep face to the anchor. Great climbing on good holds and rock.


Protection 

Twelve bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Muscle Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Unknown climber enjoying last light on Muscle Beach.
Unknown climber enjoying last light on Muscle Beac...
Austin Brown.
Austin Brown.
Near the end of the bulging crux. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Near the end of the bulging crux. Photo by Paul Re...
Cactus Cliff - Left (2). <br /> <br />Errata: Route 31 is Tits Up, Route 32 is Hot Beach.
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2).

Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
Nan finishing the crux flake of Muscle Beach.
Nan finishing the crux flake of Muscle Beach.
Taking advantage of the only rest.
Taking advantage of the only rest.
Nan cruising the lower section.
Nan cruising the lower section.
Muscle Beach, Oct. 2011.
Muscle Beach, Oct. 2011.
Amber up high on "Muscle Beach".
Amber up high on "Muscle Beach".
Starting the crux.  This is how Cactus looked the weekend after the Blizzard of 2003. <br /> <br /> BOB D'ANTONIO'S ROUTES ROCK!
Starting the crux. This is how Cactus looked the ...
Unknown climber, Oct. 2011.
Unknown climber, Oct. 2011.
Comments on Muscle Beach Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 23, 2014
By Dr. Dan
Feb 27, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I am no Shelf Road veteran, but the only climb in the 11 range on this section has to be Muscle Beach. It has its own start in an irregular crack just left of Afterburner. Once through the crack it works straight up on smoother rock on some steep holds and then angles right on the slightly overhanging bulge. It is an excellent route, but rather than 11b/c it felt more like 11a.

By Dave Meyers
From: Golden, CO
Dec 17, 2006

Let's at least stick to the guide book ratings here. Definitely .11a. if this route was at old Shelf (Contest, Freeform, Gallery, etc.) it probably would be .10d.

By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

Like the book says, "Not a single move of 5.11..." what this climb lacks in technical difficulty it only delivers on the pump factor. It's a route I'll get on everytime I go back. Easily the best of the grade at Cactus Cliff.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Stellar route, but much harder than any 11a's I've done lately, including enduro routes like this one. Harder than Free Willie in Bocan, Fuzzy Undercling at the Red, Reefer Madness in Clear Creek, etc., just to name a few.

Or maybe I just suck.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I also noticed that the person who called this 10b/c (what?!) 'cleaned it on TR' and at least one person who called it 11a one-hung on it. Dude. It's an endurance route.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 30, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

There were sure awfully good rests on it. I did it fresh off of a pretty severe injury (just got the splint off of my broken wrist a few weeks ago) that made the other 10s around give me pause... but this one, no. Didn't get pumped, didn't struggle. And I was hanging the draws OS.
I'm not trying to brag, I'm just saying that the 5.10 rating is an available opinion to more than just people who hung on it or followed it. I'd endorse that.

By Hans Hoffman
From: D'iberville, MS
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The 4/5th bolt is loose. I don't remember exactly which one. I tightened it as much as I could with my hands. Still climbable just thought I'd share.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2012

I have done many many routes from 5.10 to 5.13 at Shelf and this is among one of my favorite climbs at any grade. Regardless of the debatable grade (I thought it was roughly 5.9c), it's very enjoyable climbing and can serve as a great warmup for some of the harder routes at Cactus. Do it!!!

By dancesatmoonrise
Dec 2, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Sweet OS this afternoon. Agree the 11 a/b rating is perhaps just a tad soft. Also agree that it is totally classic. True that there is not really any technical crux, but in the upper half is a section that was interesting and had to be worked out without a great rest. Stays on ya most of the upper half. Very well protected, solid modern gear after the fourth bolt. Gave it four stars.

By Ben Hall
From: Boulder, Colorado
Feb 14, 2013

Definitely a Shelf Road favorite for the grade!

By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Jan 14, 2014

Way fun. Reiterating the above comments, just watch out for the pump. Enjoy!

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Mar 23, 2014

I thought this route, Blackman's Burden, and Misalignment all felt about the same difficulty, 10+ range. Sustained but lots of big holds and good feet to keep the pump at bay. Great route.