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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
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Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
Chick on the Side 
Conversions 
Court Jester 
Crazy Stairs 
Curving Dihedral 
Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
Drug Abuse 
Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
Good Ship Venus 
Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
Muscle and Hate 
Pony Express 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
Practice Wall 
Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
Quiet Desperation 
Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

Muscle and Hate 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb and Bob Shire
Season: Gets afternoon sunshine
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001
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Tony Bubb leads Muscle and Hate, a new route on th...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.


Protection 

The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.

The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight). Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.



Photos of Muscle and Hate Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Spindloe stands at the base to view Muscle and Hate, a new route on the West Ridge.  Photo by Tony Bubb.
Peter Spindloe stands at the base to view Muscle a...
The route, Muscle and Hate, as viewed from below, with low gear in place.  Photo by Tony Bubb.
The route, Muscle and Hate, as viewed from below, ...
Comments on Muscle and Hate Add Comment
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By steve dieckhoff
Nov 12, 2002

Led this today and found it to be very good, well-protected, and pumpy.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 16, 2003

'Rock' and roll, Tony....

By Thom Engelbach
Jan 11, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 27, 2004

A couple of body lengths of climbing through crap rock (stepping from some very questionable piles of donkey dung) to get to a couple of body lengths of steep, lichen-covered hand crack. . . 3 stars? What am I missing?

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2014

^^^ Q: "What am I missing?"
A: Both an identity and the route, apparently.