Muscle and Hate
|731 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c/d [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb and Bob Shire|
|Season: ||Gets afternoon sunshine|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Aug 2, 2001|
Tony Bubb Leads Muscle and Hate, a new route on th...
Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.
The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.
The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight); it is confirmed at a 5.11- grade. I followed it this time. Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.
Peter Spindloe stands at the base to view Muscle a...
The route, Muscle and Hate, as viewed from below, ...
|Comments on Muscle and Hate
|By steve dieckhoff|
Nov 12, 2002
Led this today and found it to be very good, well-protected, and pumpy.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 16, 2003
'rock' and roll, Tony...
|By Thom Engelbach|
Jan 11, 2004
We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 27, 2004
A couple of body lengths of climbing through crap rock (stepping from some very questionable piles of donkey dung) to get to a couple of body lengths of steep, lichen-covered hand crack. . . 3 stars?????? What am I missing?