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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
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Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
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Human Factor, The T 
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Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Muscle and Hate 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb and Bob Shire
Season: Gets afternoon sunshine
Page Views: 864
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 2, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Tony Bubb leads Muscle and Hate, a new route on th...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.


Protection 

The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.

The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight). Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.



Photos of Muscle and Hate Slideshow Add Photo
Peter Spindloe stands at the base to view Muscle and Hate, a new route on the West Ridge.  Photo by Tony Bubb.
Peter Spindloe stands at the base to view Muscle a...
The route, Muscle and Hate, as viewed from below, with low gear in place.  Photo by Tony Bubb.
The route, Muscle and Hate, as viewed from below, ...
Comments on Muscle and Hate Add Comment
Show which comments
By steve dieckhoff
Nov 12, 2002

Led this today and found it to be very good, well-protected, and pumpy.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 16, 2003

'Rock' and roll, Tony....

By Thom Engelbach
Jan 11, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 27, 2004

A couple of body lengths of climbing through crap rock (stepping from some very questionable piles of donkey dung) to get to a couple of body lengths of steep, lichen-covered hand crack. . . 3 stars? What am I missing?

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2014

^^^ Q: "What am I missing?"
A: Both an identity and the route, apparently.