|Consensus: || Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]|
|FA: ||Cole Allen|
|Season: ||When dry|
|Page Views: ||1,727|
|Submitted By: ||jonah on Apr 23, 2007|
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A fantastic line involving big moves between poop slopers, finishing with a dynamic move to a pinch. An absolute blast. Start matched on the obvious jug. Pretty straightforward at first blush, but I found it to be surprisingly technical. Originally rated v11, which is a bit of a stretch, but I've heard it called v9, too, which is a stretch, also. I gave it what seems to be the consensus grade of 10 from people who have sent it because it feels that way to me and because I have paid the price in the amount of skin I lost working this thing and sliding off the slopers...
Whatever the case may be, this is a super fun problem worth doing any time you're in the area.
From the Jerry Garcia boulder, walk uphill and right. It is on the Northeast side of the 3rd large boulder up the hill. There is a stump at the base, and the problem (when chalked) looks like a huge smiley face.
Couple pads are nice, and a spotter helps assure you you won't get your heel stuck and snap your leg in two.
Apr 23, 2007
Also, here's a good video of it by Kelly.
By Joshua Dreher
From: Bremerton, WA
Nov 15, 2011
Starting hold has broken. Still possible just the perfect section of jug is gone making the reach that much larger.
May 23, 2014
With the starting hold broken, there is a cool way to use that may actually assist the move up to the sloper. Absolutely amazing problem that does not get much traffic. Consider this one the antidote to Coffee Cup, huge slopers, compression and a good heel vs. no feet and heinous tosses between edges.