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Murray's Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type: Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Murray?
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 17, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The top part of the route. It's not nearly as stra...

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It looks like an off-width, but even if you don't like off-widths, this is a fun route. Hardly any grunting required, just clean (and amazingly not too strenuous) lay-backs all the way up. Near the top, it is common to traverse right on a small crack system over to the anchors for Finger Zinger. Probably the hardest part of the route is just getting into the off-width, because the rock is slightly loose and the crack is too wide to be comfortable. It is a great route for hot summer days as all but the very top of it stays in the shade.


The big crack on the left of Finger Zinger. This climb is also easily recognizable from the approach.


Some big pieces are nice. A few #3 and maybe a couple larger ones will give you all the protection you need. If you're uncomfortable at the grade, take more big pieces, if not 2-3 should suffice. A fixed #4 Camelot dating back to 2011 is 1/2 up the route, and the small crack system which can be used to traverse over to the anchors takes finger-sized cams.

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By Ian Harris
From: Las Cruces NM
Jul 12, 2013

I think you need more than 2-3 big pieces. 2 each of #3,#4,#5 could be good, plus a few more. And small cams really helped at the top.

By Karl Kiser
Jul 13, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Aaron is correct, you only need a few large pieces if comfortable at the grade. The pitch isn't a beginner climb and one can set up a TR by climbing the Northwest Ridge of the Citadel to the Finger Zinger anchor. I first led the climb in the summer of 75 with blue Robbin's boots and with an 11 Hex as the largest piece.

By Marta Reece
From: Las Cruces, NM
Jul 26, 2013

The top-rope can be set up where Murray's crack reaches the wide ledge at the top of the first pitch of the West Ridge. Belay from above and then walk over to the bolts shared by Murray's Crack and Finger Zinger for the rappel down.