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Munginella 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tom Fender, Vic Tishous, 1966.
Page Views: 11,282
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (242)
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Kelly leading pitch 1 with another party up on the...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This very popular route lies in the farthest left book.

The Reid guide shows it as three pitches, but it's great to do it in two with a 60 meter rope. There are three trees on the route. Climb to the third tree, make a hard left, 10' to the corner. There's a nice little ledge there where you can sit and belay. Another long pitch goes to the top.

Descend by walking off a long ways to the left.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5".


Photos of Munginella Slideshow Add Photo
Gazelle on P3 of Munginella
Gazelle on P3 of Munginella
Looking down the final corner of Munginella.
Looking down the final corner of Munginella.
fun easy climb
fun easy climb
Looking down on the 2nd pitch of Munginella
Looking down on the 2nd pitch of Munginella
There is a 2bolt anchor at the top of the climb on...
BETA PHOTO: There is a 2bolt anchor at the top of the climb on...

Comments on Munginella Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 19, 2015
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 24, 2007

wow... great description.

Anyway, this was my first valley lead several years ago. I think the reid guide shows it as 3 pitches, but it's great to do it in 2 with a 60m rope. There are three trees on the route. CLimb to the 3rd tree, make a hard left, 10' to the corner. A nice little ledge where you can sit and belay. Another long pitch to the top.
By RockMonkey
From: Concord, CA
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Don't forget to scramble up a farely obvious ramp to the tree/bush/ledge and begin the 1st pitch there.
By Steve Powell
Sep 21, 2008

the trail description in the Supertopo guide is wrong. the carabiner posts no longer exist, except for the one at the route beginning.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 21, 2009

To add to caughtinside's comment, the total route length is about 300' and easily climbed in two 150' pitches.
By ShibbyShane
Mar 28, 2010

We found two carabiner posts today: one tucked into the trees near the start of the approach (somewhat hard to find), and another right at the base of the wall where you scramble up for the first pitch of Munginella (very obvious). Awesome route!
By Chris D
From: the couch
Jul 9, 2010

like the guidebooks say, pay attention at the top of the route for loose rock, and not just until you've unroped at the tree.

Rocks you turn loose on your way to the descent will rocket down the dihedral, launching onto climbers below you. Just pay attention.
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Oct 21, 2010

I'm really surprised that no one has commented on how dirty the second pitch is. Don't get me wrong - I thought this was a fun cruiser climb, but I was blowing and wiping sand off of holds for the last 50 feet, trying not to slip. I guess it sprinkles down on the climb from the trail above?
By Rodger Raubach
Mar 15, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A Yosemite classic at the 5.6 level. That said, it still tends to be gritty and dirty from constant dirt and rockfall, knocked down from above. This is an absolute "must wear a hard hat" area! The first pitch is a real kick!
By Dan Plinska
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a truly relaxing route. It rounded off our Yosemite trip quite well. I found #.75 - #2 Camalots and larger BD stoppers to be my best friends.
By whammyjammr
From: Pacifica, CA
Jun 14, 2011

it can be done in 2 pitches with a 50 meter if you belay at the highest stance or simul climb for 10 ft. on the first pitch.
By Rodger Raubach
Jul 29, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just be careful after topping out and try not to dislodge rocks on others below. The ledge is dirty and very loose. Still one of my favorites after many years. Some really good but easy climbing!
By Johnny Y
From: California
Nov 15, 2012

watch out for ants-infested cracks that are often very inviting hand jams. Ran into one on first pitch and they were all over my body biting before I could put a piece in and hang (they even followed my rope up as I was belaying my second)!
By kaiyhul
Nov 25, 2012

The trail is not obvious, and the post is around 50' back off the trail. Look for it around 50 yards before the bridge.
By Andrew TST
Nov 26, 2012

2nd Multi-pitch route in Yos. lots of fun super cruisy with a great view of the falls halfway through the 2P. Try out the short bolt alt. to the right on P2. Have fun, I did!
By Jason Hall
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 30, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Just want to reiterate that the top has many large, loose blocks. Heading to the right at the top avoided most of the deathblocks. Great route, enjoy!
By Mike McLean
Oct 1, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Got off route after the third tree; went over the roof and followed the thin double cracks ... was wondering what that is (is it a route), and what it goes at ... ?
By John Ryan
From: Poncha Springs, CO
Mar 13, 2014

I have no idea how this climb is considered a classic. The first 1-2 pitches totally suck and are a scramble up a chossy gully - 4th class at best except for a few moves. Maybe a half-pitch of cool climbing at the top. Worst climb I've done in Yosemite.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Mar 13, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

^^^^ @ John Ryan,

Really? Scrambling up a dirty 4th class gully? Either you were off route or you are being melodramatic. The first pitch is fun on clean stone, i.e. this:

mountainproject.com/v/10604291...

does not constitute a chossy gully. Moreover as far as 5.6s in the Valley go, this is a pretty good one (certainly better than the 'glass corner' first pitch of After Six).
By Tim Fry
From: Charlotte NC
Nov 4, 2014

Just to give my $0.02 on finding this thing: The carabiner posts (there are 2) are not easily spotted from the trail. When you get an information signpost titled "Profile of a Waterfall", back up 50ft and look to your left. You'll see the carabiner signpost tucked into the woods about 30ft from the trail. Follow it up and it'll lead you to the second signpost, which is right at the start of the route. You will need to go up the 3rd class and right along a ledge for the first belay.
By Sheets
From: Livermore, CA
Feb 19, 2015

I was on this for the 1st time in many years recently. We climbed out on the right face to avoid the 3 parties on the route. The face is a bit more difficult (5.7) and with trickier pro but just as fun in its own right.

This climb is probably the most dangerous route in the Supertopo guidebook. The 5.1 escape gully at the start of the second pitch is a natural funnel for rocks being knocked down from above. I saw a softball size rock nearly hit a girl starting up the second pitch. Several other rocks came down on us while racking up at the base. People doing the descent of 5 Open Books are either unaware/unwilling/incapable of descending without sending a stream of rockfall down this route. Be careful out there.
By Ben Horowitz
From: Berkeley
Mar 24, 2015

A fun alternative 3rd pitch goes right up the hand crack on the face. It was pretty fun, ST says it goes at 5.7, but felt harder due to having to clean dirt out of the holds and there were a few pretty committing moves where you just have to stand up and trust there is a good higher jam/jug.

In any event, I would suggest starting this really early as it is very easy to get stuck behind slow parties...
By Floyd Hayes
May 6, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A video of the route is posted here: youtu.be/GoQUnC6N1YU
By alleyehave
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We opted to do the 5.7 finish. Although the climbing is fun, I don't recommend the 5.7 variation. The top out is *extremely* loose and nearly impossible to setup a belay and not knock shit down. Do the left standard finish and belay at the bolts.
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