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The Catslab
Routes Sorted
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Grizabella S 
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Gus S 
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Mr. Mistoffeles S 
Mungajerry S 
Old Deuteronomy S 
Rum Tum Tugger S 
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Unknown T 
Unsorted Routes:

Mungajerry 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 2,751
Submitted By: Jeff Lockyer on Aug 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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  • Description 

    This is the 3rd route from the left side of the Catslab between "Old..." and "Rumple Teaser".

    The route follows the left side of a black streak up the slab. The climbing is very enjoyable on this route. At the 5th/6th bolt, stick to the bolt line, don't head about 6 feet left or you will skip the best moves on the route, small crimps with small feet. I think the original line goes left to the quartz block. This variation may be 5.10b?

    This is very enjoyable, like many of the routes at the Catslab. Enjoy!

    Protection 

    10 bolts - 2 bolt anchor approximately 95 feet from lower off. I would suggest 2 ropes, also for other routes at Catslab.


    Photos of Mungajerry Slideshow Add Photo
    1. <a href='/v/skimbleshanks/105749530'>Skimbleshanks</a>, 8-. <br />2. <a href='/v/old-deuteronomy/105749185'>Old Deuteronomy</a>, 9. <br />3. <a href='/v/mungajerry/105752506'>Mungajerry</a>, 9. <br />4. <a href='/v/rumple-teaser/105749188'>Rumple Teaser</a>, 10-. <br />5. <a href='/v/gumby-cat/105748858'>Gumby Cat</a>, 4. <br />6. <a href=Mr. Mistoffeles, 9.
    7. Jellicle Cats, 9.
    8. MacCavity, 9.
    9. Grizabella, 7." />
    BETA PHOTO: 1. Skimbleshanks, 8-.
    2. [[Old Deuter...
    Leading Mungajerry. <br /> <br />Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Leading Mungajerry.

    Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Follow the green....
    Follow the green....
    The steep start....
    The steep start....
    Climb the quartz!
    Climb the quartz!
    Below the crux. <br /> <br />Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Below the crux.

    Photo by Jerry Miller.
    Phil P leading, 4-2-11.
    Phil P leading, 4-2-11.

    Comments on Mungajerry Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2013
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 5, 2002
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Cool quartz on this rock, but it's 5.9 at most.
    By Hill
    Jun 26, 2002

    I thought this was a very enjoyable climb. It has two distinct cruxes, which I felt were both 5.10a. It is more difficult than the other 5.10a on the far right side of the slab. "Might as well, might as well...."
    By John Keller
    Oct 29, 2002

    Be careful following the description that suggests moving directly up through some small face moves at one point rather than left to the quartz. While the thin face moves are certainly more interesting the crux is done with the last clip almost at your feet and a quartz ledge within striking distance below. If you come off on the face move, it will be difficult to keep from toeing the ledge. (Wasn't the cat named Mungo Jerry in the musical?)
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Apr 19, 2004

    This route packs a nice punch of variety -- overhanging start, climb through some pockets, climb the funky quartz, and finish with thin moves to just below the anchors.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 28, 2005

    Sweet route, the beginning goes real quick, but some moments of confusion towards the top...I'd say 5.10a just because of these. Fun route though
    By Top Rope Hero
    From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
    Apr 5, 2010
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yes. By all means, skip the quartz for the full 5.10 effect.

    (Big. Dramatic. Sigh.) Which pretty much goes against my entire argument on the ratings controversy for "Gus." (Sigh again.) Who knew I was so inconsistent?
    By Dave Clark 5.10
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 25, 2010
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

    I thought that thin move at the last bolt was worthy of a 10a rating. Must have been easy for Leo, but he was young back then and had strong fingernails. Our 60 meter rope made back to the ground with a couple feet to spare.
    By Ken McVicker
    Mar 15, 2012

    I skipped the big quartz at the top and stayed right. It was definitely shaky and a bit thin for the hands. Lots of smearing and delicate balancing. Much harder than using the quartz.
    By Doug Redosh
    Apr 10, 2013

    The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.
    By mountainhick
    From: Black Hawk, CO
    Jul 11, 2013

    Led this today straight up for the first time without heading left to the big crystal bailout. Seems like 5.10 a/b. Actually harder than Rumple Teaser.
    By Casey Gunther
    From: Colorado
    Aug 1, 2013
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Definitely agree with previous posts that this route is a .10a given that the climber stays off the crystal.
    By Travis Drake
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 25, 2013

    Nevermind the crystals. The water coming straight down the crux of this route, filling the hands and feet with puddles, were of a greater concern (late August). Had to veer left (probably off route) and lean back into clip the anchors.

    Also, I disagree with Leo, it's a solid 10. I guess we aren't all old-n-nasty strongmen!