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Climb the quartz!
This is the 3rd route from the left side of the Catslab. Between "Old..." and "Rumple Teaser". The route follows the left side of a black streak up the slab. The climbing is very enjoyable on this route. At the 5th/6th bolt, stick to the bolt line, dont head about 6 feet left, or you will skip the best moves on the route, small crimps with small feet. I think the original line goes left to the quartz block. This variation may be 5.10b ? This is very enjoyable, like many of the routes at the Catslab. Enjoy !!
10 bolts - 2 bolt anchor approximately 95 feet from lower off. I would suggest 2 ropes, also for other routes at Catslab.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
Cool quartz on this rock, but it's 5.9 at most.
Jun 26, 2002
I thought this was a very enjoyable climb. It has two distinct cruxs, which I felt were both 5.10a. It is more difficult than the other 5.10a on the far right side of the slab. "Might as well, might as well...."
|By John Keller|
Oct 29, 2002
Be careful following the description that suggests moving directly up through some small face moves at one point rather than left to the quartz. While the thin face moves are certainly more interesting the crux is done with the last clip almost at your feet and a quartz ledge within striking distance below. If you come off on the face move, it will be difficult to keep from toeing the ledge. (Wasn't the cat named Mungo Jerry in the musical?)
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 19, 2004
This route packs a nice punch of variety -- overhanging start, climb through some pockets, climb the funky quartz, and finish with thin moves to just below the anchors.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 28, 2005
Sweet route, the beginning goes real quick, but some moments of confusion towards the top...I'd say 5.10a just because of these. Fun route though
|By Top Rope Hero|
From: Estes Park
Apr 5, 2010
Yes. By all means, skip the quartz for the full 5.10 effect.
(Big. Dramatic. Sigh.) Which pretty much goes against my entire argument on the ratings controversy for "Gus." (Sigh again.) Who knew I was so inconsistent?
|By Dave Clark 5.10|
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2010
I thought that thin move at the last bolt was worthy of a 10a rating. Must have been easy for Leo, but he was young back then and had strong fingernails. Our 60 meter rope made back to the ground with a couple feet to spare.
|By Ken McVicker|
Mar 15, 2012
I skipped the big quartz at the top and stayed right. It was definitely shaky and a bit thin for the hands. Lots of smearing and delicate balancing. Much harder than using the quartz.
|By Doug Redosh|
From: golden, CO
Apr 10, 2013
The top move is 10a - 10b IMHO, but I have had a few months off from climbing. I wonder if a small hold broke off between 2005 and now. Much harder than the other 9s on the cliff.