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Henning Boldt flashing Mung. September '08.
Tricky and overhanging crack followed by jugs higher up. The crux is avoiding pumping out at the right facing corner below the small roof but it's far from over after that. Skinny fingers come in handy. Fun route.
Detached tower at the end of the Horse Rampart. 40 ft past Via Apia.
The route protects very well. Small to medium nuts, medium to large Aliens or Camalots up to #2. Additional #4 Camalot is very useful in protecting the lower part.
Me fishing for gear on an onsight of Mung. Photo ...
|By Doug Hemken|
Sep 4, 2008
Not much to look at it, tucked away in a little corner of Horse Rampart (the area was originally known as "Saddle Rocks," a pun of sorts?), this is easily one of the ten best 5.9's at the Lake. And very leadable.
Here is the description from the Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake (1970):
MUNG, F9A. This is the crack system on the N face of the buttress. The protection is good, provided you don't fall off trying to place it. This climb is best broken up into 12 foot pitches. First ascent by Peter Cleveland and Roger Wiegand, using one bivouac.
|By Burt Lindquist|
From: Madison, WI
Sep 4, 2008
Yes!! Agreed! This is one of the best routes for the grade at DL. It's a challenge but takes excellent gear..... Avoiding the temptation to bivi (or merely rest briefly)at the tree ledge halfway can be an added difficulty..... I should have figured it was Pete C. who gave it it's name.... sounds very fitting.
|By Kris Gorny|
Sep 4, 2008
Thanks guys! I like the idea of breaking the route into 12 foot pitches. There's a great bivy spot just below the crux, which can be reached by stepping off the route 4 feet to the left.
|By John W. Knoernschild|
Jul 13, 2009
Pumpy for sure. Great climb and great gear.
|By Woodchuck ATC|
Jul 27, 2011
Absolutely a '3 pitch' climb. I stepped off to the left about every 15 ft. for that needed rest. A really fun route to lead; takes gear easily. Always dark in that corner, tough to get some good pics of the moves.
|By Dylan Colon|
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 3, 2011
A weird shoulder jam thing (see picture) allowed for a pretty good almost no hands rest before the last roof, no stepping out left needed.