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Munchkinland Area

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Lurking Troll Tower???? 
Roman Baths, The 
Towers, The 
Wall of the Dancing Dwarves 
Wall of the Marching Munchkins 
Wall of the Trundling Trolls 
Wall of the Waltzing Witches 

Munchkinland Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 32.38886, -110.71688 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 100,001
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Dec 8, 2005  with updates from Carlos Murphy
Forecast:
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Best routes for YOU in this area
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Setting up a rappel to clean a route

Description 

Wall of the Waltzing Witches:
10 routes, Moderate sport, faces about 20 degrees south of east, gets shady around 12-1.

The Towers:
12 routes, Mostly easy sport.

Wall of the Marching Munchkins:
20 routes, Moderate to hard sport.

Wall of the Dancing Dwarves:
11 routes, Hard sport, a few multipitch.

The above 3 walls face about 20 degrees north of west, in the shade until about 12-1

Wall of the Trundling Trolls:
About 45 routes, several moderate to hard sport but mostly moderate to hard trad/mixed. The main face is almost facing directly east, gets shade around 12 or 1. The upper right face has good shade during 11-1 maybe.

General Description:
This popular area is mostly sport from 5.4 to 5.12. Close to 100 routes total. A few of the easier climbs on the Towers are pretty long. There are a lot of routes in the 5.10 to 5.11 range. Mostly straight up to slightly overhanging with good variety to the holds. There are even a couple of 2nd pitches to the climbs on the Dwarf Wall. It usually cools off here pretty quickly approaching the winter season due to the abundant shade. The Troll Wall is known to be quite high quality for trad. The season is roughly April to October, shasing the sun and shade can be done to satisfy the season. Windy days can be quite cold and scary due to potential tree fall(and often likely/observed).

Crowds:
There can be quite a few people here on weekends, but there is usually enough to climb, you might have to wait if you are getting on some of the more popular routes, the Witch Wall may be a bit neglected but fun for moderate stuff. During the week, you probably won't see many people.

Gear:
10 quickdraws is enough for most of the shorter sport routes, 16 draws gets you up almost anything probably. Standard Lemmon rack is good for the trad: full set of nuts, full set of cams(micro to #3 camalot, you might find a spot for a #4), and a few extendable slings.


Getting There 

Drive to the end of the Rose Canyon road and park in one of the large lots, there is also some parking along the road if it is crowded. I think as long as you park by a blue dumpster, you are ok.

(Edit: Finding the trail: Ideally you should be parked in one of the 2 lots above the lake(not down by the lake), you should see picnic pavillions(north-ish, away from the lake, on your right as you drive in), a snack bar(on the right as you drive in from the road) and an amphitheatre( kinda down by the stream on the left as you first drive into the parking area). There is a bathroom building by where the road goes down to the lake area. ***The trail starts exactly behind the snack bar(which may or may not be open, small building about the size of a bedroom). You follow this trail as is goes up and skirts the huge slab. Often trees fall on the trail, but if you are ever not on a well-traveled trail, you are going the wrong way.)

From the slabs behind the snack bar and picnic ramada, pick up a trail (about the top and middle of the slabs, maybe a little on the left side) heading south/southwest (the trail will go mostly south and curve west slightly) and take it to the ridgeline (crossing several fallen trees), then follow it to a clearing/slab.

For the Towers, Wall of Marching Munchkins, and Wall of Dancing Dwarves, turn right and follow a short section of well-groomed switchbacks downhill to the climbs. For the Wall of Waltzing Witches, turn left at the clearing. All trails should be well-maintained and marked with cairns. Another way to access the Wall of the Waltzing Witches is to head up the gulley between the Two main walls and go straight across the slab at the top and turn right to hike down to the wall. This is probably about a fun 4th/5th class free solo. To get to the Troll Wall, continue past the Dwarf Wall on the trail.

More beta: www.hillarydavis.com/munchkininfo.html


Climbing Season


101 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',57],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',6],['5.8',10],['5.9',20],['5.10',31],['5.11',27],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Munchkinland Area:
The Dark Side of Oz   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 80'   The Towers
There's No Place Like Home   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Wall of the Marching Munchk...
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   The Towers
Asgard   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Run Like Hell   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Sudden Death   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
If I Only Had a Brain   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport   Wall of the Marching Munchk...
Few Species   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 185'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Flying Monkeys   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Wall of the Dancing Dwarves
Munchkinland   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Wall of the Marching Munchk...
Poppies Will Make Them Sleep   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport   Wall of the Marching Munchk...
Business as Usual   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 170'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Talk of the Nation   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 80'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Pay No Attention to the Man Behind the Curtain   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 65'   Wall of the Dancing Dwarves
Horse Of A Different Color   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Wall of the Dancing Dwarves
Vahalla   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 185'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Ruby Slippers   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Wall of the Marching Munchk...
Stranger in a Strange Land   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Goodbye Yellow Brick Road   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Wall of the Dancing Dwarves
Slip Service   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 50'   Wall of the Trundling Troll...
Browse More Classics in Munchkinland Area

Featured Route For Munchkinland Area
Geir on the first pitch of "Business As Usual" - photo by Joe Lee

Business as Usual 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Wall of the Trundling Troll...
A true Mt. Lemmon classic! Unquestionable rock, adequate protection, and thought-provoking climbing. A textbook example of archetypal Mt. Lemmon traditionally protected weakness climbing. The 22-year-old drilled pin has been replaced with a bolt. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.) Pitch 1 Begin in a shallow left-facing corner (thoughtful protection) that turns into a prominent right-leaning weakness. Look for a bolt approximately 30 feet up. Ascend this sweeping...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Munchkinland Area Slideshow Add Photo
Most of the rock around here is nice and bullet proof
Most of the rock around here is nice and bullet pr...
Joe in Munchkin Land leading route
Joe in Munchkin Land leading route
munchkinland
munchkinland
Shot of Munchkinland taken from the top of the Outcroppings.
Shot of Munchkinland taken from the top of the Out...
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There, a long-ish 5.9 at Munchkinland. Photo by Hillary Davis.
Clip Clip Here, Clip Clip There, a long-ish 5.9 at...
Joe in Munchkin Land leading route
Joe in Munchkin Land leading route
Arizona Black Rattlesnake (Crotalus cerberus) on the way out from the Wiked Witch wall, Munchkinland area. This snake was irritated, but seemed very hesitant to strike. Although ready to defend itself if necessary! Neat sounding rattle, did it in real short bursts, like a shicka..... shicka....
Arizona Black Rattlesnake (Crotalus cerberus) on t...
Comments on Munchkinland Area Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2014
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jun 26, 2006

If you own a stick-clip this might be a good place to bring it.
Though I think some of the climbs with low cruxes become quite a bit easier if you stick-clip the first or second bolt.

By Hillary Davis
Jul 4, 2006

Schweet! A plug for my Web site!

By Braxtron
From: ...
Feb 5, 2007

This area is arguably the most popular on Mt. Lemmon for novice climbers & stick clips. In other words: gym climbing-type atmosphere here.

By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Jun 2, 2007

What is the route right of "Horse of a different color 11-"?

There is "...Man behind the curtain 10+" and then "flying monkeys" which starts on the other side of the grungy arete and then crosses over to the face. and then there are two more bolted routes, one of which is "horse ...". What is the other?

By Boodge Nomchompski
Jun 13, 2007

Any guides yet for the new areas across the stream? Thanks.

By strongbad
Jul 4, 2007

go to the website it's extremely helpful and thorough.

By C Zambito
Aug 29, 2007

Haven't met any unfriendly people here in around 20 visits. Can be difficult to get on some routes if your picky and want to do certain ones.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 28, 2007

what's this place like in january?

By Jimbo
Sep 30, 2007

Could be nice could be very cold. Could be snow on the ground.
You can always go do some routes on the Troll Wall in the AM sun then move back to Munchkin in the afternoon. But there are much warmer places to climb on the Lemmon in the winter, lower on the mountain.

By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 1, 2007

hmmm true. thanks.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Mar 8, 2008

Any way to divide this section into 2? There are actually two separate walls, on opposite sides of the rock. I think it'd make more sense that way.

EDIT: Thanks for organizing these climbs, Greg!

By Brent Silvester
Apr 30, 2008

A heads up to all who enter the Munchkinland Area -

According to the Rangers and the pay station, all people who enter, or walk through the Rose Lake campground, even for just one second, are required to pay a $1 "walk in" fee. I did not know about this until I took a first timer friend of mine there, and we were chased down by this ranger who started freaking out about us not having a Pass. Unaware of this stupid fee, I thought she was kidding, and quickly found out she wasn't. For those of you who park on Willow creek road, you are technically supposed to pay the $1. I think you would have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to get caught, but it happened to me, and sucked. Cause then you have to walk all the way to the fricking pay station, and then back.

Personally, I think it is bull shit to charge someone to walk through a national forest, especially since I'm supposed to pay just to use the road. I'm not parking there or using any of the facilities, just walking through. It's not like the national forest service is replacing anchors and bolts, or even putting trails to get to these areas. Outrageous. A fee area inside a fee area.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Apr 30, 2008

That seems like a pretty efficient use of the money I pay in taxes, use an hour of a ranger's time (who probably costs the government at least $20 an hour after benefits, etc) to collect $2.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 30, 2008

I know someone is going to give me crap for saying this. I should be a better role model blah blah blah. But you already paid a fee to be on the mountain. I suggest you just keep hiking, fast if necessary until you are out of the area. I doubt they will follow you. The fast walking part is where you will lose them. Or run if need be. That is just total BS.

By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Apr 30, 2008

Pretty soon they are going to issue radio collar's to Climber's! That way the FS can track us down like animal's.

By Brent Silvester
May 3, 2008

Under normal circumstance I would have made that ranger WORK a little harder to extract that trivial fee from me. However, I was with a newbie and my girlfriend and didn't want to be 'that guy'.

We started joking later about all the charges we incurred that day. Walking on a trail: $1, Looking at Rose Lake: $5, kicking pine cone: $3 etc. etc.

Perhaps I should pay all the fines and fees, and maybe the Forest Service will use the money to post a sign at Windy point telling the good ol boys to stop throwing bottles, cans, and rocks off the cliffs. Oh yeah, maybe they can pull out the porter potty lodged in a gully near Lizard Marmalade Direct . . . .

By Tobin
May 6, 2008

I went up to Munchkinland just yesterday for the first time, and found the approach directions to be almost entirely innaccurate.

To get there, we parked in the parking lot not far from the lake (way past the blue dumpster, which as of yesterday was not far past the fee station) and walked along the path (which starts as a paved road to the handicap parking lot) to one of two dams. From there you can either scramble down into the dam drainage or walk the long way all around the lake (crossing the opposite dam) and take an obviouse path down into the drainage from the other side of the dam. Once we were in the drainage we lost track of the trail and just followed the stream (actually, it was a string of stagnant pools at the time) about 15 minutes down to the wall. I read somewhere that Munchkinland was "The first climable rock you come to" on your way in, but I found a couple of smaller walls on the way in that made me stop and check the guide books. They were all cliffs 40-60 ft tall that looked easily like they could have been easy first leads (like I'd heard the Towers were), but there were no bolts or anchors to be found, so we pressed on and eventually got there. About a 15 minute hike once you decend from the lake.

Also a note about the fee (not the walk in fee, I know nothing about that): We stopped to pay for a day pass ($5) at the pay station on Catalina Highway and were told that we didn't need one for rose canyon rec area, but that the rec area itself has an $8 fee. So, no need to pay a fee twice. Also, the rec area offers season passes for $45, so if you plan on making the trip 6 times, it might be worth considering.

By jbak
May 6, 2008

Dude, you were totally lost. There's a much better way. It sounds more like you were headed for Willow or Troll.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 6, 2008

Which directions did you use Tobin? SQ II , Falcon Guide, MP.com?

By Scott M. McNamara
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 16, 2008

THE FEE NO LONGER EXISTS

Last Saturday (May 10, 2008) I went to the kiosk at Rose Canyon Lake. I told them I wanted to park above the lake and use the Fisherman's Trail but wished to pay the one dollar ($1.00) fee to walk across their concession area. They told me the fee no longer exists.

Today, (Friday, May 16, 2008) a representative from the Coronado National Forest Service called me. She apologized for the fee incident with Brent Silvester---see his posts above. She said that the concessionaire will refund the fee to anyone it charged. She said that the Forest Service will no longer allow their concessionaire to charge this fee. If it tries to do so, then the Forest Service wants to know and it will take disciplinary action.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 16, 2008

Thanks Scott and Susan for working on this!

By adam e
From: Tucson, AZ
May 27, 2008

Our group was charged the $1 walk-in fee one our way to climb at Munchkinland on Sunday May 25th. We thought it was odd, but didn't know any better and didn't feel like arguing the point, so we paid our way in.

Thanks to Scott, I've been in touch with the Forest Service about this and they're going to refund our money (on principal) and speak directly with the staff at the Rose Canyon area about this.

The Forest Service rep made it very clear that there is to be no fee for walk-ins and apologized for the inconvenience.

So if you should be asked to pay a fee for walking in, you can make up your own mind about what to do, but I strongly recommend letting the Forest Service know about it.

Thanks Scott for the post and info!

-Adam

By Scott M. McNamara
From: Tucson, Arizona
May 30, 2008

MISSION NOT ACCOMPLISHED (as of May 29, 2008)

More developments with the fee to walk through Rose Canyon Lake.

The concessionaire (RRM) is now taking the position that they can charge whatever fees they like.

The Forest Service is trying to figure out what to do about this new development.

With so many people climbing these days, access issues (like these) are going to become much more common. We have been fortunate to escape them for so long. In respect to this situation, I am hoping to avoid any incident between climbers and RRM workers that would reflect badly upon us.

As I previously mentioned, I am interested in collecting any information about your encounters with this concessionaire. I would be gratefull if you would e-mail me anything you think I should know.
Thanks.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 30, 2008

There was a thing called the Boston Tea Party once. I say pretend you can't hear them and keep on walking. If you can get away from someone that has their ass surgically attached to a golf cart you should take up another sport.

Or if it will make Scott M. happier (our reflection is important) then tell them the F Service said we didn't have to pay and until we hear otherwise we are not going to comply.

Quit being a bunch of chumps. You have paid for a day or year pass. Your tax dollars are used to maintain the forest. Do not let them charge you a third time to walk on your forest land!

By jbak
May 30, 2008

I'm gonna get me a lounge chair, set up by the bathroom and charge anyone that passes by a dollar.

By Braxtron
From: ...
Jun 30, 2008

Is this silly fee still in effect?

By James DeRoussel
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 30, 2008

I haven't heard anything on the "fee" lately, but we hiked through the lake to Munchkinland two weeks ago. I stopped and chatted up the concessionaire employee working the snack stand, and she didn't ask us for any money. Hopefully, this "fee" issue has been laid to rest. If you do get stopped, I recommend a firm but polite refusal.

By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Apr 23, 2009

If you are facing the front of the snackbar from the driveway, you should walk around behind it on the left side. The trail is right there. It will take you straight up the slab.

Once you get up the slab, the trail will take you southwest around the lake. There are a few overlooks where you should see the lake on your left.

At no point can I remember the trail ever going north or east. I had a compass with me, and looked for a trail heading in that direction. (Yes, I got quite lost). There are a number of 'kind of' trails in that direction that were apparently used to cut down burned trees. I agree that you will definitely be on a well-marked trail, but it does go west and southwest around the lake.

Hope this helps! The climbing is great and we had the area all to ourselves this past weekend.

By Todd Duzer
From: Tempe, Arizona
Mar 17, 2014

I was just at Munchkinland on today (March 16th) and left my white helmet and brown moccasin shoes. I believe I left them by "Wall of the Dancing Dwarfs" at the climb the "Dancing Dwarfs". If you are going there soon and see them I would really appreciate it if you let me know! My number is 760-521-4721 or you can email me at todd.vanduzer@gmail.com

Thanks!