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Multipitch Belaying off Harness vs. Anchors
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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2011
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord
rgold wrote:
Putting the belay device into the rope tie-in rather than the belay loop is common practice in the UK. Here is a link to a discussion about pros and cons: ukclimbing.com/articles/page.p.... I first learned about it many years ago from Chris Harmston, then the BD engineer and one of the most authoritative voices on climbing safety procedures I've encountered, and since then, I have always belayed this way. It has nothing to do with mistrusting or sparing the belay loop. A factor-2 directly onto the belay loop does, however, put all kinds of opposing forces on the harness which the device on the rope tie-in eliminates.

thank you for the explanation!

and Yarp, jab away! ;)

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By slim
Administrator
May 25, 2011
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
something that i try to do when possible; if my partner is leading the next pitch, when i lead up to a belay spot i try to climb past it and put in a couple pieces to give them a 'head start' on their pitch. then i downclimb to my belay spot and build my anchor. this helps keep my belay a little cleaner, eliminates their attempt at FF2'ing onto my anchor, etc.

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