Multipitch at Staunton State Park

I've been to Staunton once and was hiking out to the crag and saw a couple huge looking granite monoliths in the distance (4-6 miles out). I think that I talked to a ranger and he mentioned that there were a few 4+ pitch mixed 11s going up them, but I can't find any beta on them.

Anyone know anything about these? Or was this a distant climbing hallucination in my head?

My understanding is that there is a very small crew of people developing out there. The free download guide is pretty out of date and mountain project has less.

I don't know if they're keeping the lid on it to bolster an as of yet unreleased for profit guide or if it's just time consuming to update the current one.

Specifically ask (as in PM through this site) the FA guys. Look through the routes listed here, you'll come up with a list of about 4 people to contact.

Other than that, I have no info.

Hey Patrick, the cliff you were probably looking at in the distance was Lions Head. The face has been ascended numerous times since the 70's(?) but there is little to no info on any of the routes on the face. I know some folks have gone out there since the park has opened but it seems that the beta is to "follow your nose". There are no modern mixed lines, but who knows you may encounter some older fixed gear.

I've always been intrigued by the face, but I've never been to the base. It'd be pretty cool if some people started putting up and documenting lines out there, its just a ton of work.

Thanks for the info. I talked to Kevin a bit and he mentioned Lion's Head as well. Perhaps next day without rain I'll make my way down there.

The only legal access is through the main park entrance, so plan on a long day. I'd recommend biking in to Elk Pond and then hiking to the base from there.