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Multi-Pitch Communication - When you can't quite hear, or see!
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By Reece Henson
From Knoxville, TN
Aug 16, 2010
Photo by Paul Hassell
we always just do 3-5 big tugs for every major thing:

leader tugs to say off belay
then another to say they're off
then the ropes are pulled and the seconder tugs to say that's them
then leader tugs again to say they're on belay
seconder tugs to say they're climbing

we've never had any problems with this

By Kevin Craig
Aug 16, 2010
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Yep, radios are the best solution though, having been an advocate for years, I have to admit I've had a ton of random radio problems in the last year. When they don't work, you need a backup plan like those discussed here.

As for your problem.... If you were carrying a cordalette (as we all should for use in a self-rescue situation) you could have tied a friction knot above the sheath cut and tied/clipped it into you harness - not ideal but would afford some piece of mind. Oh, but i forgot, you're a Sporto; you probably don't know any of this traddie stuff! :^D. Sorry, just couldn't resist!

By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Aug 16, 2010
My navigator keeps me from getting lost
Jason Gilbert wrote:
Does anyone actually use whistles to communicate on a regular basis? My first thought is that in a place like Eldo it could get pretty crazy with everyone blowing their whistles to communicate. Second, Iíve always viewed whistles as a tool to communicate if youíre in trouble, 3 blasts from a whistle communicates distress and that you need help. If everyone starts using whistles to communicate, it would be difficult to tell if climbers needed help or if it was just normal communication.

+1 Please don't use whistles for anything other than to signal an emergency.


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