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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Northern Wasatch
> Cache Valley
> Logan Canyon
> Mullein Land
Mullein
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1.4 from 12
votes
Routes in Mullein Land
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26 Bananas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bellingham Blues S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blackstreak Boys S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bowling for Cars T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Detachable Futures S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Graham Slam S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I'm blue, I'm a dog, I'm a dog. S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jack Be Nimble S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Labor and Delivery T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leary Ledges T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mister Cruel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mullein T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Old Glory S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scatterbrain (AKA Final Hurrah) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Serotonin S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 981 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Schroer on Aug 25, 2011 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This route travels up a large, block-filled gully with superb views of Logan Canyon and the river far below. The book says it can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but there was no obvious belay station, so I suggest cruising through in 1 pitch. The route has some loose, chossy holds and some loose pebble to cobble size rocks on it, so I advise both the climber and especially the belayer to wear helmets! The climbing is easy and consistent at 5.5. Protection is typical of Logan Canyon limestone: notoriously tricky to place solidly. Luckily, spots for protection are numerous and hand holds abound. Not a route to seek out in and of itself, but if you're up at Mullein land and have a trad rack with you, give it a shot.
Location
This route is located in the gully directly to the right of Old Glory, before you walk around to the back side of Mullein Land. Climb up this obvious gully using traditional pro. At about 30 feet from the top, make sure you head left, as going right will make for an interesting exploration to find anchors/battle rope drag.
Protection
A standard rack up to a #3 camalot was used. Be sure to bring several 24" runners to reduce rope drag (a killer on this route without them if you do it in one pitch). There are fixed chain anchors located just below the summit to the left. A 70 m rope will get you to the ground (tie your ends). If you have a 60 m, descend straight down the face (10ish meters) to Old Glory's anchors which will get you the rest of the way down.
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