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All Locations >
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 2. Southwest Face
Muir Wall
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C3-
Avg: 3.8 from 33
votes
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Freerider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2900 ft (879 m), 33 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | FA Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965 / FCA Steve Grossman, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 31,206 total · 149/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.
Location
The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.
Protection
Standard Gear: cams in triples from .5" to 3", an extra 0.75" or two, and doubles in Black Diamond 4" to 5" equivalent. Micro cams are very useful on many pitches, bring doubles if you've got em. Bring a solid set of nuts including offsets, as well as one or two sets of micro nuts (incl. offsets). Bring a single medium hook, but you could possibly use a beak instead on the 1-2 hook placements on the route.
Clean Rack: bring two wide cam hooks (narrow may work as well) and as many beaks as you've got (at minimum, bring doubles in all sizes, but ideally several more). Offset cams, ideally doubles in the smaller sizes. Totems (especially black to yellow) were great for the strange shallow scars on the upper pitches. Ballnuts.
Nailing Rack: bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and 1-2 beaks in sizes small, medium, and large.
Clean Rack: bring two wide cam hooks (narrow may work as well) and as many beaks as you've got (at minimum, bring doubles in all sizes, but ideally several more). Offset cams, ideally doubles in the smaller sizes. Totems (especially black to yellow) were great for the strange shallow scars on the upper pitches. Ballnuts.
Nailing Rack: bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and 1-2 beaks in sizes small, medium, and large.
Photos
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