Muir Wall  5.10 A2

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 33 pitches, 2900 feet, Grade VI Consensus:  5.10a/b C3 [details] FA:  Yvon Chouinard, TM Herbert, 1965 Submitted By:  Steven Lucarelli on Feb 27, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The Muir Wall is an outstanding route that follows a beautiful natural line of crack and corner systems just left of The Nose. Although moderate in grade this route sees relatively little traffic due to it's very sustained and demanding nature, which requires lots of technical aid climbing. This route has been climbed at 5.9 C4 but most parties will probably want to bring some pins and a hammer to keep the grade at A2. For more detailed info and topos look at the "Yosemite Big Wall Supertopo" guide book.

Location 

The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to a large left facing dihedral just left of Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.

Protection 

Bring three sets of cams from .5" to 3", extra 1" cams and one each of 3.5" to 4.5" a 6" cam and micro cams are also very useful on many pitches. Also bring two sets of nuts with offsets and one or two sets of micro nuts with offsets. Bring one cam hook, an assortment of about 8 to 10 LA's, a few 1/2" and 5/8" angles and a sawed off 3/4" and 1" angle. Finally bring 2 to 4 KB's and Supertopo says to bring a Beak but I don't recall ever using one on the route.

Photos of Muir Wall Slideshow

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Muir, pitch 24(?)	Hey brah...	Haj (Marek Hajek) cleaning...
Got jugs?	Out of the frying pan...	BETA PHOTO: Muir Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Tom Evans photo