All Locations > California > Los Angeles Basin > Stoney Point > S Buttress 2

Magnesia Lung

Name: Magnesia Lung
Rating: 2.8

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R

Routes in South Buttress 2

L › R R › L A › Z

Magnesia Lung T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA:	David Katz - 1980
Page Views:	1,293 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Jordan Ramey on May 17, 2007
Admins:	Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK Details

Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!

Description

The crux is down low. Typical crimpy, delicate Stoney Point climbing. Similar to Beethoven's Wall, but with more exposure. Originally a lead (hence the R rating), put up by Dave Katz, now usually top-roped.

Location

Route starts under the first bolt and a bit right. Climb up to the first bolt, then trend left a bit then trend right for the rest of the climb. Follow the bolts all the way up. Direct start under the bolted line is a bit harder IMO.