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 ADVANCED
Ridge 4
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apostrophe S 
Dodge City S 
Honeymoon In Beirut S 
Hoss S 
Lawyers, Guns, and Hilties S 
Life During Wartime S 
Little Joe S 
Miss Kitty S 
Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite S 
Mud Shark T,S 
Occupied Territory S 
Piece Process T 
Pinch A Loaf S 
Wild, Wild West, The S 

Mud Shark 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dave Field, Dave Fortner, Ziggy, 1990
Page Views: 364
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 9, 2002

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mud Shark climbs in a bee-line from behind the big pine tree on the ground to the pine tree on the ledge above, passing a small crux roof just below the top. This goes on thin, sharp edges. Rap off the tree. This 70 foot route comes equipped with sharp edges, corners, and run outs throughout. While additional camming pro is advisable between clips 1 and 2, things get really juggy here, and the route is more often led without the Friend. Getting to the first clip is sporty but not difficult. Mud Shark is a cool route from a band of degenerate DOCs (Dirty Old Climbers).

Protection 

A half a dozen draws and a rope are all that is required, however, a small Friend may be useful between clips 1 and 2.


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By Ernie Moskovics
Apr 11, 2013

FA info is accurate. Dave Field was fond of lifting Zappa lines and song titles for route names (viz., 'Mud Shark of your mythology..."; "Apostrophe",) hence some of the names at this crag.
This was originally finished with a 20' traverse left to avoid the overhanging section, then back right and up the wall. Also, there is a wire placement to cover the moves to the first bolt.
By Pinklebear
Jun 29, 2014

Sandbaggio. The only gear I needed/used was a Metolius #4 (red) between bolts 1 and 2. The webbing up on the summit tree looks crispy, not to mention the tree is growing/leaning against a giant, weird perched block -- topped out, downclimbed, then lowered off Lawyers, Guns and Hiltis.