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Eldorado
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Métal hurlant T,S 

Métal hurlant 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 15 pitches, 1500', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,230
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Nov 2, 2008

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Pitch three: superslabolisticexpertmajordosis.

Description 

A varied route, offering a mix of friction slab climbing, cracks, and a wicked crux up a flaring chimney. In total, the route covers around 500 meters in 15 pitches.

The route begins with three slab pitches of increasing difficulty. The crux of the third 6a+ slab pitch is a dandy. The route then follows a crack / corner for two solid pitches, before a slightly more humane, slabby sixth pitch traverses left to an anchor below the crux chimney. The faces on both sides of the chimney pitch are horrendously blank, and the chimney flares considerably. Complementing the few and far between bolts with cam placements while maintaining counterpressure is a real test of composure. The excitement doesn’t end there, however. Upon exiting the chimney, the pitch veers out to the right on difficult slab territory, with the next protection available only after pulling through the slab traverse. Another two pitches of engaging slab / corner climbing follow, before the route eases off with six more pitches of primarily slab climbing to top off.


Location 

The route is in the middle of the Eldorado wall, starting from a slabby extension of rock. The route is marked at the base.

Descent is by walk off, down a gully to the right of the wall.


Protection 

The route is, for Eldorado standards, well equipped, with around four bolts per pitch. A moderate complementary rack will come in handy.



Photos of Métal hurlant Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch one, so much more to look forward to.
Pitch one, so much more to look forward to.
Pitch eight
BETA PHOTO: Pitch eight
On the descent trail.
On the descent trail.
Pitch four
Pitch four
The crux seventh pitch from above, with the flaring chimney, blank traverse, and final crack leading up to the anchor
BETA PHOTO: The crux seventh pitch from above, with the flarin...
Pitch six
Pitch six
One of the final, slabby pitches.
BETA PHOTO: One of the final, slabby pitches.
Pitch seven: the crux flaring chimney
Pitch seven: the crux flaring chimney
a party in the flaring chimney
a party in the flaring chimney
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