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Mt Yamnuska 


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Elevation: 7,349'
Lat, Long: 51.1238, -115.1185 Map
Page Views: 12,877. Good page? (4 likes)   
Administrators: Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Brad Warne on Feb 5, 2007

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Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...

Description 

Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 115 routes. Ranging from 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is Limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!


Getting There 

Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt Yamnuska:
Easy Street   5.6 PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II   The West End
Grillmair's Chimneys   5.6 PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   Kahl Wall
Red Shirt Route   5.7     Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III   Red Shirt
Western Union   5.8 PG13     Trad, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade II   The West End
Direttissima   5.8+ PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100 feet, Grade III   CMC Wall
Kahl Wall   5.10-     Trad, 9 pitches, 850 feet, Grade II   Kahl Wall
Missionary's Crack   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 920 feet, Grade II   The West End
Pony Express   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 670 feet, Grade II   The West End
Jimmy and the Cruisers   5.10+ PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade II   Red Shirt
Browse More Classics in Mt Yamnuska

Featured Route For Mt Yamnuska
Dave starting up the crux pitch

Kahl Wall 5.10-  International : Canada : ... : Kahl Wall
Excellent and varied climb that felt very solid (I assume due to lots of traffic - but not too much as the limestone has not been polished smooth yet). Kahl Wall tends to wander about so route finding is a challenge. Most of the climbing is moderate so you don't have to be a solid 5.10 climber. The crux pitch is very sustained and much harder then any other pitch on the route, but it is extremely well protected with lots of bolts and occasional gear placements so that no matter what one coul...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Mt Yamnuska Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.  c1997.

Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...

View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam

View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam

Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat

Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat

On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep.

On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep...