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Mt Yamnuska

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Mt Yamnuska 


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Elevation: 7,349'
Location: 51.1238, -115.1185 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,993
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brad Warne on Feb 5, 2007
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Yamnuska

Description 

Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 115 routes. Ranging from 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is Limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!


Getting There 

Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt Yamnuska:
Grillmair's Chimneys   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   Kahl Wall
Red Shirt Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Red Shirt
Direttissima   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   CMC Wall
Kahl Wall   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 850'   Kahl Wall
Browse More Classics in Mt Yamnuska

Featured Route For Mt Yamnuska
Fran Bagenal, Forbidden Corner. Probably P7. Thrilling....

Forbidden Corner 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a North America : Canada : ... : Red Shirt
Length: 310m, 9 pitchesSun Exposure: receives sun, parts of the corner will provide shadeTime: 4 - 8 hours to climb the routecar-to-car: 7 - 11 hoursDifficulty: 5.9 (or 5.10a)Rack: Cams: doubles of micro to 3" (#3 camalot), single #4 usefull, but not entirely necessary, normal selection of nuts.A classic route (originally named Verboten Corner) with some of the best climbing at the grade in the Rockies. A little routefinding, runout climbing ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mt Yamnuska Slideshow Add Photo
Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat
Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat
Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.  c1997.
Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...
Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.  c1997.
Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...
On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep.
On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep...
View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam
View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam
Comments on Mt Yamnuska Add Comment
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By JoMer
Jun 10, 2014

Glad to hear these guys were rescued yesterday. Anyone know what route they were on? Curious to know if there are other loose boulders up there.
news.nationalpost.com/2014/06/09/climber-rescued-on-alberta->>>

By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 17, 2014

The route was Missionary Crack. As with all routes on Yam there is loose rock. That section of the route has always had some teetering masses.