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Mt Yamnuska

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Mt Yamnuska  


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Elevation: 7,349'
Location: 51.1238, -115.1185 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 18,167
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad Warne on Feb 5, 2007
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Description 

Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 115 routes. Ranging from 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is Limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!

Getting There 

Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.7 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',3],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt Yamnuska:
Grillmair's Chimneys   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   Kahl Wall
Red Shirt Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   Red Shirt
Direttissima   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   CMC Wall
Kahl Wall   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 850'   Kahl Wall
Browse More Classics in Mt Yamnuska

Featured Route For Mt Yamnuska
1st pitch

Jimmy and the Cruisers 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Red Shirt
A sustained route on pretty good rock w/ no bad, several good and one great pitch. Josephson rates it 10c, Genereux 10/11a R; I'll split the difference.P1: 10- PG, 35M. Follow the corner/crack up to a bolted anchor about 10M below the roof.P2: 10+, 45M. Continue up the crack line and go straight over the roof. Above this sustained 5.10 past a pin leads to a fixed belay.P3: 5.9R 25M. You can either follow Red shirt or: Traverse left for a few feet then go up a corner for a while w/...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mt Yamnuska Slideshow Add Photo
Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat
Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat
Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.  c1997.
Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...
Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.  c1997.
Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...
On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep.
On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep...
View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam
View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam

Comments on Mt Yamnuska Add Comment
Show which comments
By JoMer
Jun 10, 2014
Glad to hear these guys were rescued yesterday. Anyone know what route they were on? Curious to know if there are other loose boulders up there.
news.nationalpost.com/2014/06/...
By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 17, 2014
The route was Missionary Crack. As with all routes on Yam there is loose rock. That section of the route has always had some teetering masses.