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Yamnuska Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 7,349'
Location: 51.1238, -115.1185 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,672
Administrators: Tom Gnyra, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad Warne on Feb 5, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Yamnuska (officially named: Mt Laurie) has approx 115 routes. Ranging from 30m sportish climbs to 350m trad testpieces. Its southern exposure allows for a long climbing season. It can be climbed in the middle of winter but don't be surprised if you get snowed on in the middle of August either. As with most of the Rockies the rock is Limestone, which is a mixed bag. Though generally the rock is good and excellent in places. For more information refer to "Yamnuska Rock" by Andy Genereux.
If you want adventure climbing you will find it here!

Getting There 

Yam is located approx. 1hrs drive west of Calgary and 30mins East of Banff. If coming from Calgary take Highway 1 (Trans Canada)west to Highway 1X. Take the righthand off ramp heading north to Highway 1A. Turn right at the "T" intersection, drive approx. 2km and take the first left turn into the parking area. If coming from Banff, take Highway 1 east to the 1X and continue as above.
The approach trail leaves the parking lot at the west end. Follow the trail up a steep hillside to a junction with a sign. The climbers trail heads west and will deposit you at the base of the cliff near the center. The hiking trail heads east and will put you at the east end of the cliff. The climber's trail is a sustained grunt and the best option if climbing any routes west of Red Shirt. The hiking trail is a little more pleasant and adds only a couple of minutes but is only recommended for approaching the East End routes.
The descent for most routes is an easy walk off. If your route is west of the summit head down and west, if it is east of the summit head down and east. For routes that are close to the summit on the east side it is usually quicker to head over the summit and take the western descent trail.

Kallen 34 

The Kallen 34 is a published list that puts 34 routes on Yamnuska on a pedestal as a healthy and scary challenge to those who want to test their mettle. The list is at Brandon Pullan's Blogspot or just below:

Windy Slabs
Easy Street
Kings Chimney
The Toe
The Tongue
Dazed and Confused
Moms Tears
Calgary Routes
CMC Wall
Chockstone Corner
Bottleneck Direct Direct
Kahl Wall
Forbidden Corner
Red Shirt
The Bowl
Yellow Edge
Freak Out
Dicks Routes
Gollum Grooves
A Route
B Route
C Route

These are not the 'best routes' as many are considered pretty bold and scary but just a list put together by Urs Kallen, a Pionner of the Valley. It is a healthy objective for anyone who wants to get some good rock climbing done and also brag at the bar.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

17 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Yamnuska

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Yamnuska:
Easy Street   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 800'   1. The West End
Grillmair's Chimneys   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 1000'   5. Bottleneck
Direttissima   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 9 pitches, 1100'   3. CMC Wall
Red Shirt   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 8 pitches, 800'   7. The Bowl and Red Shirt
Kahl Wall   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 9 pitches, 850'   6. Kahl Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Yamnuska

Featured Route For Yamnuska
Rock Climbing Photo: Don Fry on P5.  Thanks Ron Keller for your help.  ...

Red Shirt 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  North America : Canada : ... : 7. The Bowl and Red Shirt
This is a reasonable low-end, moderate route that features some adventure, some route finding challenges, and some loose rock. Its limited technical difficulties & less-than-vertical rock will help acquaint the novice to the cliff, but the loose rock and traversing might leave some grumbling. This, pioneered by Greenwood, Kahl and Lofthouse in 1962, was one of the earliest routes to go to the top. Also, this route is a bit infamous for the disproportionate number of injuries and fatality(ies)...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Yamnuska Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam
View of Bow Valley from top of East End of Yam
Rock Climbing Photo: On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep...
On the approach trail to Yam, before it gets steep...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Ke...
Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...
Rock Climbing Photo: Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat
Yamnuska as seen from Kid Goat
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Yam, on the approach.  Thanks Ron Ke...
Looking up at Yam, on the approach. Thanks Ron Ke...

Comments on Yamnuska Add Comment
Show which comments
By JoMer
From: Tempe, AZ
Jun 10, 2014
Glad to hear these guys were rescued yesterday. Anyone know what route they were on? Curious to know if there are other loose boulders up there.
By Brad Warne
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jun 17, 2014
The route was Missionary Crack. As with all routes on Yam there is loose rock. That section of the route has always had some teetering masses.

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