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Mt. Willard

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East Face - Lower 
East Face - Upper 
South Face - Lower 
South Face - Upper 
Trestle Area 
Willey Brook 

Mt. Willard  

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Elevation: 2,865'
Location: 44.20348, -71.41032 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 34,607
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008  with updates from Kurtz
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Mt. Willard in February, with a party on Cinema Gu...


Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.

The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.

The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.

Getting There 

Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Many hiking trails leave from this lot so it tends to fill up early. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

20 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Willard:
Elephant Head Gully   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Trestle Area
Great Madness   WI5     Ice, 2 pitches, 200'   South Face - Lower
Read Between The Lines   WI4     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   East Face - Upper
Trestle Gully   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch, 75'   Trestle Area
East Face Slab Right   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch   East Face - Upper
Left Hand Monkey Wrench   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   East Face - Lower
Gully 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   South Face - Lower
The Cleft   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   East Face - Upper
Cinema Gully   WI2     Ice, 3 pitches, 600'   South Face - Lower
The Snot Rocket   WI4-5 M5     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 120'   Trestle Area
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   East Face - Lower
Browse More Classics in Mt. Willard

Featured Route For Mt. Willard
East Face slab right, still fat in late March

East Face Slab Right WI3+  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : ... : East Face - Upper
A fat flow with many variations. A sixty meter rope will barely make the rappel with a creative party, but two ropes is much easier. The position of the climb offers a great view of Mt. Webster's west ridge.The area may be a better option to rappel from the Upper Hitchcock Gully if a second party is waiting....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Mt. Willard Slideshow Add Photo
My wife and I at the lookout on top
My wife and I at the lookout on top
Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide...
BETA PHOTO: Mt. Willey and Mt. WIllard, showing Willey's slide...
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
Mt Willard seen from Mt Webster
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
The consolation prize for climbing on Willard. Eve...
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...
Willard from the road on a sunny (but ass-chapping...

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