A multi-faceted area. The main slab has multi pitch slab and crack climbing in a nice sub alpine setting. Recent "revisited" climbs such as Hugo's Horror And Time Traveler have had widly-spaced bolts and secure double-bolt belays added to the APPROXIMATE (but not exact) line of the original route. These, as well as some of the older lines, now make for pleasant outings and a somewhat different experience from slabs like Whitehorse.
The recently developed Willey Brook Ravine, and "rediscovered" Butress No. 1 AREAs provide interesting 1 pitch climbs of a different, steeper sort. But. No. 1 "sports" several newer, bolted, NON-SPORT routes in the 5.6 - 5.8 range, as well as several trad climbs in the same grade range. Of course, there's an "X" ...."R/X" or two as well!
For years the classic approach was to drive west on NH rt. 302 and park across the street from elephants head. Walk back south east along the tracks over two trestles to where a short gully nearly reaches the tracks. (This approach, at least in the summer and fall when the sightseeing train runs, is, technically, trespassing.) Hike up to the base of the slabs in the woods. Standard and Hugo's start at the low point, Time Traveler and Accross the Universe are up and to the right 100 ft. Star Treck, etc., are further right.
Another approach, and clearly the best for Willeys Ravine and Butress No. 1 , is given in the "Getting There" section of the Butress No.1 AREA. This approach is also a faster approach to the slabs than the (long) walk in along the RR tracks from the notch, although it does involve some "up" hiking.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
12 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Willard:
Featured Route For Mt. Willard
Salespitch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a NH
: Mt. Willard
: Upper Face
This route is located on the upper tier.Access this route by Rappeling from the top or by climbing Across The Universe (suggested). P1 - Climb up the easy slab and when the rock steepens under the left facing flake get ready for some really fun climbing. Climb up using cool pockets and flakes, then establish in the right facing corner leading up to a small roof. At the roof you want to step left around it (crux) by making use of a small undercling. Once you make this move expect the climbing to ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By burlap submariner
Sep 14, 2009
There is a new route on willard that was put up sometime in early 2007 that climbs the face and overlap thats about 50 feet down hill from the start to across the universe, if you walk left from across the universe's bolted start there will be an immediate drop off where the toe of the cliff starts to come down toward the train tracks, at that drop off look to your left and you will see one bolt, start for that bolt and follow your nose & lots of new bolts along the way to the tree ledge that splits the lower and upper cliffs....this is an excellent and quick way to get up to the tree ledge if someone else is on the universe....
By Robert Hall
Jul 25, 2014
See the 7/25/14 COMMENT to the climb Hattie's Garden for Beta on the "path" to "Gulley#1 Buttress".
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 5, 2014
Per Rob Hall's suggestions, I broke Mt. Willard down into sub areas. I have only climbed here once, so am not so familiar with the area. If anybody has any suggestions, corrections or more route information, let us know. Don't forget you have that blue 'Improve This Page' button. The area descriptions and directions could use some filling out.