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Mt. Whitney

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Iceberg Spire" T 
East Buttress T 
East Face T 
Mountaineer's Route, The 
North Face T 

Mt. Whitney  


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Elevation: 14,496'
Location: 36.5784, -118.293 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 200,842
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Wilder on Jan 23, 2006
Forecast:
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Description 

Want to climb the highest peak in the lower 48? You're not alone. While the permit process is a major hassle, the crowds are thin (until you summit), and the granite is as fine as it gets.

Most climbs are about 1000 feet tall on the east face that gets shady by afternoon. Storms can brew over on the west side and give you quite a surprise.

There are two non-technical ways to the summit: the Whitney trail, a long slog up an easy walking trail, and the Mountaineers Route, a steep gully filled with loose rock, which is the usual descent route for climbers.

There's a decent campground at the end of the road, near the trailhead. You must have a permit to camp anywhere beyond that, and they're not easy to get. Call 760-873-2483 or go to the forest service's website. Unless you're doing the Whitney Trail, you want a permit for the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek.

Getting There 

Drive up the Whitney portal at about 8,300 feet. Lots of parking and bear boxes, where you need to leave anything with an odor that you're not bringing, including toiletries.

Most people spend the night at either Upper Boy Scout Lake (11,300 feet) or Iceberg Lake (12,600 feet). Iceberg is the way to go if you have the time. Incredible views of the mountain (and most routes), clear water right in front of you, and the climbing starts just a little ways up the scree slope from your campsite.

Getting there is tough and it's quite easy to get off route. I recommend buying the supertopo and follow the excellent instructions there.

The hike can get really hot. Start early (dawn) and you'll get to a campsite by lunch, have time to rest up and scope the route.

Climbing Season



Weather station 16.1 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Whitney:
The Mountaineer's Route   3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 1500'   
East Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000'   
East Buttress   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1000'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Whitney

Featured Route For Mt. Whitney
Mt. Whitney's East Buttress, just below the Peewee.  Photo by Tauru.

East Buttress 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : High Sierra : Mt. Whitney
The premier moderate route in the Whitney Area.Day 1 Hike to Iceberg Lake. Day 2 Do climb. Day 3 Hike back to Whitney Portal.Eleven fairly consistent pitches on excellent rock. The route starts up a scree slope where you head to left-facing corner on the right side of the "second tower", which is directly on the east buttress.It's pretty easy to stay on route - don't stray far from the true buttress. If it's obviously harder than 5.7, look around and get back on route.p1. Easy climbing up the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mt. Whitney Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Whitney from the Russell-Carillon saddle - late October 2005
Mt. Whitney from the Russell-Carillon saddle - lat...
Mt. Whitney and Keeler in the alpine glow. August '03.
Mt. Whitney and Keeler in the alpine glow. August ...
Whitney and Keeler from the drive to Whitney Portal.
Whitney and Keeler from the drive to Whitney Porta...
Sun setting behind Mt. Whitney from the approach to Iceberg lake.
Sun setting behind Mt. Whitney from the approach t...
Whitney massif
Whitney massif
Mt. Whitney at sunrise.  Mountaineer's route goes up the snowy gully.  East Buttress is the prominent buttress just to the left.  The East Face route is left of the buttress.
Mt. Whitney at sunrise. Mountaineer's route goes ...
Mt Whitney Backcountry
Mt Whitney Backcountry
Jodi Levine and Arin Trook descend from Iceberg Lake after a trip up the Mountaineer's Route (January 1, 2001).
Jodi Levine and Arin Trook descend from Iceberg La...
Duke on the approach nearing Iceberg Lake with Keeler and Whitney in the background.
Duke on the approach nearing Iceberg Lake with Kee...
Mt Whitney area
Mt Whitney area
coming down the mountaineer's route
coming down the mountaineer's route
On the upper snowfield near the summit.  January 20, 2008.
On the upper snowfield near the summit. January 2...
Mt. Whitney area
Mt. Whitney area
The Whitney crest in the clouds
The Whitney crest in the clouds
Mt. Whitney area
Mt. Whitney area
The view up the N. Fork of Lone Pine Creek to Mt. Whitney
The view up the N. Fork of Lone Pine Creek to Mt. ...
Mt. Whitney <br />View from Mt. Irvine
Mt. Whitney
View from Mt. Irvine
Whitney Massif
Whitney Massif
Another shot of morning light on the Whitney Crest
Another shot of morning light on the Whitney Crest
The notch at the top of the Mountaineer's Route gully looking east
BETA PHOTO: The notch at the top of the Mountaineer's Route gu...
Mt. Whitney area
Mt. Whitney area
Approaching Mt Whitney
Approaching Mt Whitney
Camp at Iceberg Lake.  Moutaineers route is up the gully.  East Buttress route is the obvious shadow line.
BETA PHOTO: Camp at Iceberg Lake. Moutaineers route is up the...
Dawn at Iceberg Lake
Dawn at Iceberg Lake

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Comments on Mt. Whitney Add Comment
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By ClimbandMine
Jan 30, 2006
You can easily (well, maybe not easily) do the East Face, East Butt, or Mountaineer's Route in a day. IF (big if) you know the approach to Iceberg Lake. You'll be doing it in the dark. Early season the creek is high and you'll be crossing it. The trail may be running with water. You will get wet. You may get soaked.

Like the man said, buy the Supertaco. The directions are excellent. Scope the approach in daylight if you've never done it.
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Mar 19, 2006
Don't take the mountaineer's route too lightly. I climbed the route on the first day of summer last year thinking I could do it pretty fast but found snow most of the way above treeline. Post holing sucked a lot of energy out of me on the descent but still managed to finish the route in 11.5 hours. It is a good idea to find out what current conditions are before climbing. Crampons and axe are necessary early in the season.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 19, 2007
If you're going to do it in a day (perhaps because you couldn't get a permit) then yes, intimate knowledge of the North Fork approach and the selected route is mandatory - altitude conditioning is also mandatory. Don't forget to pack out your puke.
By Scott Rice
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 25, 2012
East Face to the top of the washboards. Direct East Face to the top of the PeeWee. East Buttress to the summit. 7 hr 20 min car to car. Direct makes for a TERRIFYING solo!!
By Sdm1568
From: Ca
Oct 1, 2012
Is anyone doing mountaineer's route this winter/spring?
By Will Treichler
May 14, 2013
I dropped a green fleece and black shell on the snow field leading off the summit. I will pay shipping+ if someone happened to pick them up.

Sorry for trashing the mountain.